From almost as early as I can remember, two things have aroused my attention like nothing else. The first was fine food and drink. The second was redheads. Today, I fill my life with as much of the former as my wallet and liver will allow. The latter, however . . . .
Born in 1969, I spent my formative years watching such afternoon and Saturday morning educational gems as Tom and Jerry (take away: mice are smarter than cats), School House Rock (learning is fun with rhythmic music and easier with simple pictures) and Gilligan's Island. The very beautiful, very leggy and very sexy Tina Louise played the very sultry Hollywood starlet, Ginger Grant. Oh, Tina--the criminal effects you had on this poor eight-year old boy should have landed you in jail. I discovered hormones in the midst of your breathy words whispered into Gilligan's ear. (Looking back on it now, I understand why I felt an uncontrollable need to press my crotch against the hard arm rest of the sofa. As an eight year old, I couldn't really express it in words; and gratefully to all, I couldn't yet express it in other ways.)
I learned that Ginger represented all that was sexy, spicy, exotic and even a little forbidden.
Her namesake, the rhizome ginger, shares all of her best qualities without me having to abuse the furniture. Medicinal, culinary and horticulturally, ginger provides numerous benefits. It's flowers are stunning and given the right conditions, are easy to grow. Eating ginger (not Ginger) treats the symptoms of many forms of nausea including motion sickness and morning sickness. But it is in cuisine that ginger really commands attention. Add the juice to rice while cooking for a pleasant aroma and tingle on the tongue. Add ginger beer or ginger ale to a beverage to make it even more refreshing. Add slices, shavings or diced ginger to meat or vegetarian dishes for an Asian flair.
Ginger is best when it's peeled and because of its fibrous texture, either grated, juiced or cut up very fine. It's also inexpensive. Buy it fresh at nearly any supermarket. I recommend against buying the dried powdered ginger sold in the spice aisle as the flavor of dried ginger disappears within a month or two of grating it. And because ginger is quite fiery, it pairs well with sweet ingredients.
I have grown up a lot since the mid-70's. Tom and Jerry isn't as entertaining as I once thought, and mice are really pretty dumb (but then, so are cats). School House Rock is even better now. Gilligan's Island became the giant on whose shoulders other television shows stood (MacGyver and Seinfeld owe a debt of gratitude). And although Ginger is still hot, the furniture is now safe. BTW, my lovely wife has dyed her hair red.
For breakfast this morning, I made:
Cinnamon Pancakes with Apple and Ginger
1 cup All Purpose Flour
1/4 cup Sugar
2 teaspoons Baking Powder
1/2 teaspoon Salt
1 teaspoon Cinnamon
1 Egg, beaten
1 1/2 tablespoons Butter, melted and cooled slightly
3/4 cup milk
2 tablespoons finely diced fresh Ginger
1 large sweet Apple (I used a Fuji), peeled and finely chopped
Mix all the dry ingredients together in a large bowl. Mix the liquid ingredients together in another bowl. Add the liquid to the dry ingredients and mix by hand until combined. Add the apple and ginger and stir until evenly distributed.
Cook on a medium hot skillet as you would other pancakes. Serve hot with butter and Ginger Maple Syrup.
Ginger Maple Syrup
1 can Ginger Ale
1 tablespoon fresh grated Ginger
1/2 cup Dark Maple Syrup
In a large, open sauce pan on medium high heat bring the ginger ale and grated ginger to a light boil, stirring constantly. Add the maple syrup. Bring back to a light boil, stirring constantly, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Continue to stir regularly until the syrup mix is reduced by half.
Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.
This would also be great on ice cream.
Sunday, March 20, 2011
Sunday, March 13, 2011
Oops and Opportunities
When caught in an absolute whirlwind of life, I tend to unwind in the kitchen. And boy have I been creative in the kitchen this past month! Here are a handful of things I've been working on:
Lavender Bitters
Winter Vegetable Bake
Greek Stir-Fry
Chicken Soup Pot Pie
Crepes
. . . and few dishes that were just OK to flat out bad. (My darling bride and kitchen-mate was thoroughly unimpressed by Tilapia and Shrimp in an Orange Cream Sauce.)
Ask me how I recover from a bad recipe experiment.
Well, after some minor embarrassment and scraping of dishes into the compost, I think back to where I went south. More often than not, it was the wrong amount of one ingredient, the improper cooking temperature or a bad guess on cooking time (the last two can generally be summed up as "awful texture.") If the principles of the dish are sound and I can identify the problem, I will try it again with tweaks. On the other hand, if my panel of expert taste-tester (see "darling-bride and kitchen-mate" reference, above) suggests that I should abandon the dish altogether, I drop it like the proverbial rotten potato it might be. I have thereby successfully avoided repeats of the Sesame Fried Tofu incident, the Scallops Encrusted in Tapioca Flour, or the dreaded Fried Squash Blossoms with Fish-Paste Filling. (DON'T JUDGE ME!)
Now and then, however, one of those mistakes becomes serendipity. Overcooking can lead to caramelization which can be delicious when everything else works out. Too much of one spice can create a new emphasis on the palate. And cooking something too long and at too low of a temperature can concentrate flavors and make everything a little more bold. Here's a couple of near mistakes we've decided are worth keeping.
Greek Stir-Fry
We emptied a family member's refrigerator of all the perishables that might perish before they return from vacation. We combined the ingredients with a few things I had in our kitchen and then I cooked it way too quickly on too high of a temperature. With a little doctoring, here is the happy result.
2 tablespoons Canola Oil
6-8 large stalks of Kale, de-stemmed and chopped (I used 5 stalks of Bok Choy (with stems) instead)
8 large Mushrooms, sliced
1/4 of a medium Onion, chopped
1 teaspoon of dried Oregano
1/2 cup Greek Yogurt
juice of 1/2 Lemon
1 brick of Firm Tofu, drained and cut into 1 inch cubes
1/4 cup crumbled Feta Cheese
Heat a wok or deep skillet on high heat for 90 seconds. It may start to smell like a hot skillet. That's good. Add the canola oil and wait for 30 seconds. Swirl it around and add the kale, mushrooms and onion. Let rest for 10 seconds, then flip it around with a spatula. Saute for 2 minutes on very high heat, then add the oregano, yogurt, and lemon juice. Get it hot again. Add the tofu, stir and remove it from the heat. Sprinkle with Feta cheese and serve over couscous. Or rice. Or left over polenta like I did.
Lavender Bitters
This started off as Cucumber Bitters, but that didn't work out AT ALL! But it did make really great lavender bitters.
750 ml Everclear
1 12 inch English Cucumber sliced
8 oz dried Lavender blossoms
6 oz dried and crushed Orange Peel
40 drops Gentian Root Extract
Combine all the ingredients in a clean jar. Shake every 2 days. Filter thorougly and rebottle. Use sparingly whenever an herbal punch is needed.
Lavender Bitters
Winter Vegetable Bake
Greek Stir-Fry
Chicken Soup Pot Pie
Crepes
. . . and few dishes that were just OK to flat out bad. (My darling bride and kitchen-mate was thoroughly unimpressed by Tilapia and Shrimp in an Orange Cream Sauce.)
Ask me how I recover from a bad recipe experiment.
Well, after some minor embarrassment and scraping of dishes into the compost, I think back to where I went south. More often than not, it was the wrong amount of one ingredient, the improper cooking temperature or a bad guess on cooking time (the last two can generally be summed up as "awful texture.") If the principles of the dish are sound and I can identify the problem, I will try it again with tweaks. On the other hand, if my panel of expert taste-tester (see "darling-bride and kitchen-mate" reference, above) suggests that I should abandon the dish altogether, I drop it like the proverbial rotten potato it might be. I have thereby successfully avoided repeats of the Sesame Fried Tofu incident, the Scallops Encrusted in Tapioca Flour, or the dreaded Fried Squash Blossoms with Fish-Paste Filling. (DON'T JUDGE ME!)
Now and then, however, one of those mistakes becomes serendipity. Overcooking can lead to caramelization which can be delicious when everything else works out. Too much of one spice can create a new emphasis on the palate. And cooking something too long and at too low of a temperature can concentrate flavors and make everything a little more bold. Here's a couple of near mistakes we've decided are worth keeping.
Greek Stir-Fry
We emptied a family member's refrigerator of all the perishables that might perish before they return from vacation. We combined the ingredients with a few things I had in our kitchen and then I cooked it way too quickly on too high of a temperature. With a little doctoring, here is the happy result.
2 tablespoons Canola Oil
6-8 large stalks of Kale, de-stemmed and chopped (I used 5 stalks of Bok Choy (with stems) instead)
8 large Mushrooms, sliced
1/4 of a medium Onion, chopped
1 teaspoon of dried Oregano
1/2 cup Greek Yogurt
juice of 1/2 Lemon
1 brick of Firm Tofu, drained and cut into 1 inch cubes
1/4 cup crumbled Feta Cheese
Heat a wok or deep skillet on high heat for 90 seconds. It may start to smell like a hot skillet. That's good. Add the canola oil and wait for 30 seconds. Swirl it around and add the kale, mushrooms and onion. Let rest for 10 seconds, then flip it around with a spatula. Saute for 2 minutes on very high heat, then add the oregano, yogurt, and lemon juice. Get it hot again. Add the tofu, stir and remove it from the heat. Sprinkle with Feta cheese and serve over couscous. Or rice. Or left over polenta like I did.
Lavender Bitters
This started off as Cucumber Bitters, but that didn't work out AT ALL! But it did make really great lavender bitters.
750 ml Everclear
1 12 inch English Cucumber sliced
8 oz dried Lavender blossoms
6 oz dried and crushed Orange Peel
40 drops Gentian Root Extract
Combine all the ingredients in a clean jar. Shake every 2 days. Filter thorougly and rebottle. Use sparingly whenever an herbal punch is needed.
Sunday, February 6, 2011
The Party for the Event That Must Not Be Named
Every year there exist 2 days which celebrate all things gluttony. Thanksgiving ranks #1 for sheer food consumption, and is indeed my favorite holiday, but the day of the National Football League Championship is a close numero dos and you don't usually have all those pesky vegetables to get in the way. (The title of said Championship is copyrighted and therefore cannot be used without permission. And since I am entirely promoting myself and in no way have an interest in waiting for NFL Commissioner Roger Goodell to get back to me on this, I'll be providing alternative descriptors that I hope catch on.) (And if this is successful, I'll have a go at the Mouse That Must Not Be Named and the Sort of Checkmark Logo for Shoes and Other Sports Apparel That Must Not Be Named.) (And as a third aside, unrelated except that it points to the remarkable nature of "ownership," everyone in the world will have to change our email accounts or pay royalties.)
As you may recall from last year, we went to a new Super Concave Vessel Party . Like Moses going to the Promised Land, we journeyed for what seemed like 40 days, and then came upon a land of plenty, complete with mana falling from Heaven (funny story, our hostess actually did drop a key lime pie from her heavenly hands, so to compensate she made two more pies by halftime). Joy filled our hearts and taste buds. But we had no idea of what to expect and as a result we were not prepared.
So this year things have changed. We are still driving for forever (it's worth it), but for this Uber Bowl Party I'm making Duck Sliders and wearing expandable pants.
. . . . . . . . . .
Post §ยบ¤ Bowl Party: Green Bay has won, Cheeseheads celebrate in snow-covered streets and I am once again uncomfortable with how much I had to eat. The generosity of our hosts continues, as you can see from the pictures below. But the Duck Sliders were well received.
Duck Sliders
1 large Duck (Pekin is preferrable)
1 teaspoon ground Black Pepper
For the Brine:
approximately 1 1/2 gallons of Water3 cups Salt
1 California Bay Leaf (or 2 Turkish Bay Leaves)
2 tablespoons each, Whole Cloves, Juniper Berries, Allspice, all lightly crushed
1 can of Cola
Combine the ingredients for the brine and stir until the salt is completely dissolved. Rinse the duck thoroughly and submerge it in the brine. Let stand in a cold place (35 degrees), overnight.
Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Remove the duck and rinse it well, inside and out. Pat dry with paper towels. Season with black pepper, inside and out.
Roast the duck on an elevated rack in a roasting pan for 1 hour. When the skin is crispy, pierce it with a sharp fork or point of a knife. Flip the duck in the rack and drain the liquids from inside the body cavity. Roast for another 2 hours. Prick the skin again, flip and drain, as before. Increase the heat to 400 degrees and roast for 30 minutes to crisp the skin (to aid in easy removal).
Let the duck cool completely and remove the skin. Tear the meat from the bones and shred by hand or with forks. Combine with a sauce of your choosing, heat and place in warmed and buttered dinner rolls or slider buns. Serve hot.
Homemade Duck Sauce
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons Honey
all the containers of sauces that we collected from the Chinese food delivery we still had in the fridge
1/4 cup Mae Ploy Sweet Chili Dipping Sauce
Cider Vinegar, as needed
Melt the butter in a saucepan set to medium high heat and add the honey, stiring constantly. Add the other sauces, stirring and tasting. If needed, add vinegar.
Stir until the flavors have combined.
Sunday, January 30, 2011
The Berlusconi
Like the beverage's namesake, this little gem is sweet, sour, bright in flavor, dusky in color and moody in temperament. It'll charm the women and punch any man in the face. Get ready for a Bunga-Bunga party!
The Berlusconi
3 oz Whiskey
1 oz Sweet Vermouth
3 dashes Frenet
3/4 teaspoon Elsa 12-year Balsamic Vinegar
Lemon Twist
Combine the liquid ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously for 30 seconds. Strain into chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.
The Berlusconi
3 oz Whiskey
1 oz Sweet Vermouth
3 dashes Frenet
3/4 teaspoon Elsa 12-year Balsamic Vinegar
Lemon Twist
Combine the liquid ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously for 30 seconds. Strain into chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.
Monday, January 17, 2011
Caution: Children Playing
We had a little family reunion this weekend. It was the first time all 3 siblings and all of our families could be in attendance, because it was the first time we've all been together since my nephew was born. I learned a LOT about children, and a little about myself.
My niece is almost 3 years old. We'll call her Milly. My nephew, lets call him Baxter, was just learning to crawl, so I think that makes him somewhere between 5 and 7 months old. Certainly less than 1 year. And since he was born sometime in 2010, I think that's a pretty safe guess.
Now, my niece and nephew are the most beautiful children in all the land. Not at all lizard-like. Additionally, they are exceptionally well behaved--unless they want something. Then, the otherwise sweet and demure children scream like banshees. I also now know that these two are always in some state of undress: When Baxter was completely dressed, Milly would be peeling off her pants. Milly likes to be completely dressed for dinner, but Baxter needs to be in his all-together.
Milly is very fond of the lime light--if she's singing and you're not paying attention, well . . . attention must be paid.
I learned that kids can be very finicky eaters, but that they will also put anything in their mouths. I learned that kids can swing from laughter, to screaming, to laughter again in a matter of moments. I learned that my Mom really likes being a Grandma.
More than anything else, I learned that my younger brother and his wife are great parents.
I get to be a great uncle. Who teaches the kids inappropriate behavior. And maybe a little cooking.
For meals this weekend, we enjoyed:
Aussie Burger
This is my brother's award-winning recipe based on a recipe found in Gourmet magazine. This is another case of taking a good idea and making it better. Side note: I'm not sure why it's called an Aussie Burger. Unless you believe the Australians enjoy things larger than they need to be (think: cans of Foster's Beer) or you think they are a sloppy nation. But I don't think that's fair. Shame on you, you racist.
1/2 lbs Hamburger Patty
Salt Crust Roasted Chicken
10 lbs Rock Salt (coarse sea salt is fine but very expensive. Ice cream salt also works well and is much cheaper. Just be sure it's a kind that you can eat, and not a poisonous de-icer for sidewalks.)
6-7 large leaves Sage
3/4 teaspoon Ground Black Pepper
About 2-3 hours before cooking, completely rinse the chicken, inside and out. Pat it off with paper towels, season inside and out with pepper, and let stand to dry. (Like we did in the Duck recipe.)
About 1 hour before cooking, put the salt in a deep baking pan and put it in the oven set to 400 degrees. Salt is a rock and can withstand very high heat.
About 10 minutes before cooking, stuff the herbs into the body cavity of the bird and truss its legs and body closed. Clip or tuck its wings.
When the salt is heated all the way through, remove 2/3 - 3/4 into another large metal bowl. BE CAREFUL! With a wooden spoon or paddle, even the salt back out over the bottom of the pan. Lay the bird in the middle of the salt and then pour the hot salt from the bowl over the bird. Completely cover the chicken.
Put the pan back in the oven, reduce the temperature to 350 degrees and cook for an hour and 30 minutes.
By this time most people are thinking, "Great idea! I've completely ruined this chicken by dumping 10 pounds of salt on it." Not so, good reader! Allow me to lay a little science on you: Drying the skin and heating the salt allows the cooking to begin without dissolving the salt into the water in the meat. As the meat heats up, steam escapes and there is a subtle interplay of steam dissolving small amounts of salt and the chicken taking on the perfect amount of seasoning. If the salt grows to too high of a concentration, the steam from the cooking meat forces it back out again! Ain't science great?
Pull the pan out of the oven and let it rest for 10 minutes. Carefully brush the salt away until you come to the hard crust. Gently crack through with a heavy knife handle and let some of the steam escape. You should be able to then remove the rest of the crust with your fingers. This will be the juiciest, most tender and most perfectly seasoned roasted chicken you've ever tried. One word of caution, however. If the salt grains are too fine, you may have to discard the skin and only eat the meat beneath.
Sausage Gravy
1lbs of Pork Sausage (plus up to 1 tablespoon bacon fat)
3 tablespoons All Purpose Flour
Salt and Ground Black Pepper, to taste
3-4 cups Milk
In a heavy skillet, on medium high heat, brown and render the fat out of the sausage. Drain the sausage, reserving the fat and the drippings in the skillet. There should be about 3 tablespoons of fat. If not, add additional bacon fat to the pan, reduce the heat to medium and lightly sprinkle in the flour, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or wire whisk.
Keep stirring until the roux darkens to a deep chocolaty, caramelly brown. Reduce the heat to medium low. Slowly add the milk, stirring the entire time. If you aren't using a wire whisk, yet, do so now. Pour in 3 cups of milk and keep stirring as the roux dissolves into the milk. Season with salt and pepper.
Stir and stir. This is an exercise in patience and love. When the milk begins to boil (15 minutes or so) there won't be that raw flour flavor. Let it cook and start to thicken. If the gravy gets too thick, add more milk. If the gravy is too thin, let it cook a little bit longer. It will thicken. As it starts to cool, it will thicken more. Don't forget to scrape the bottom and the sides of the pan.
About 5 minutes before serving, taste and finish seasoning with salt and pepper. Add the sausage to the gravy and stir. Serve on top of buttermilk biscuits.
My niece is almost 3 years old. We'll call her Milly. My nephew, lets call him Baxter, was just learning to crawl, so I think that makes him somewhere between 5 and 7 months old. Certainly less than 1 year. And since he was born sometime in 2010, I think that's a pretty safe guess.
Now, my niece and nephew are the most beautiful children in all the land. Not at all lizard-like. Additionally, they are exceptionally well behaved--unless they want something. Then, the otherwise sweet and demure children scream like banshees. I also now know that these two are always in some state of undress: When Baxter was completely dressed, Milly would be peeling off her pants. Milly likes to be completely dressed for dinner, but Baxter needs to be in his all-together.
Milly is very fond of the lime light--if she's singing and you're not paying attention, well . . . attention must be paid.
I learned that kids can be very finicky eaters, but that they will also put anything in their mouths. I learned that kids can swing from laughter, to screaming, to laughter again in a matter of moments. I learned that my Mom really likes being a Grandma.
More than anything else, I learned that my younger brother and his wife are great parents.
I get to be a great uncle. Who teaches the kids inappropriate behavior. And maybe a little cooking.
For meals this weekend, we enjoyed:
Aussie Burger
This is my brother's award-winning recipe based on a recipe found in Gourmet magazine. This is another case of taking a good idea and making it better. Side note: I'm not sure why it's called an Aussie Burger. Unless you believe the Australians enjoy things larger than they need to be (think: cans of Foster's Beer) or you think they are a sloppy nation. But I don't think that's fair. Shame on you, you racist.1/2 lbs Hamburger Patty
Toasted Hamburger Bun
1 leaf Lettuce
1 slice of Tomato
3 medium Green Chilies, roasted and skins removed
2 slices Pickled Beets
1 slice Pineapple, grilled
1 Egg, fried, over easy
2 tablespoons Chili Aioli
Grill the burgers to your liking. Toasts the buns. Assemble. Eat it as best you can. Use lots of napkins.
Salt Crust Roasted Chicken
10 lbs Rock Salt (coarse sea salt is fine but very expensive. Ice cream salt also works well and is much cheaper. Just be sure it's a kind that you can eat, and not a poisonous de-icer for sidewalks.)
1 Frier Chicken (3 lbs)
1 large sprig Thyme6-7 large leaves Sage
3/4 teaspoon Ground Black Pepper
About 2-3 hours before cooking, completely rinse the chicken, inside and out. Pat it off with paper towels, season inside and out with pepper, and let stand to dry. (Like we did in the Duck recipe.)
About 1 hour before cooking, put the salt in a deep baking pan and put it in the oven set to 400 degrees. Salt is a rock and can withstand very high heat.
About 10 minutes before cooking, stuff the herbs into the body cavity of the bird and truss its legs and body closed. Clip or tuck its wings.
When the salt is heated all the way through, remove 2/3 - 3/4 into another large metal bowl. BE CAREFUL! With a wooden spoon or paddle, even the salt back out over the bottom of the pan. Lay the bird in the middle of the salt and then pour the hot salt from the bowl over the bird. Completely cover the chicken.
Put the pan back in the oven, reduce the temperature to 350 degrees and cook for an hour and 30 minutes.
By this time most people are thinking, "Great idea! I've completely ruined this chicken by dumping 10 pounds of salt on it." Not so, good reader! Allow me to lay a little science on you: Drying the skin and heating the salt allows the cooking to begin without dissolving the salt into the water in the meat. As the meat heats up, steam escapes and there is a subtle interplay of steam dissolving small amounts of salt and the chicken taking on the perfect amount of seasoning. If the salt grows to too high of a concentration, the steam from the cooking meat forces it back out again! Ain't science great?
Pull the pan out of the oven and let it rest for 10 minutes. Carefully brush the salt away until you come to the hard crust. Gently crack through with a heavy knife handle and let some of the steam escape. You should be able to then remove the rest of the crust with your fingers. This will be the juiciest, most tender and most perfectly seasoned roasted chicken you've ever tried. One word of caution, however. If the salt grains are too fine, you may have to discard the skin and only eat the meat beneath.
Sausage Gravy
1lbs of Pork Sausage (plus up to 1 tablespoon bacon fat)
3 tablespoons All Purpose Flour
Salt and Ground Black Pepper, to taste
3-4 cups Milk
In a heavy skillet, on medium high heat, brown and render the fat out of the sausage. Drain the sausage, reserving the fat and the drippings in the skillet. There should be about 3 tablespoons of fat. If not, add additional bacon fat to the pan, reduce the heat to medium and lightly sprinkle in the flour, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or wire whisk.
Keep stirring until the roux darkens to a deep chocolaty, caramelly brown. Reduce the heat to medium low. Slowly add the milk, stirring the entire time. If you aren't using a wire whisk, yet, do so now. Pour in 3 cups of milk and keep stirring as the roux dissolves into the milk. Season with salt and pepper.
Stir and stir. This is an exercise in patience and love. When the milk begins to boil (15 minutes or so) there won't be that raw flour flavor. Let it cook and start to thicken. If the gravy gets too thick, add more milk. If the gravy is too thin, let it cook a little bit longer. It will thicken. As it starts to cool, it will thicken more. Don't forget to scrape the bottom and the sides of the pan.
About 5 minutes before serving, taste and finish seasoning with salt and pepper. Add the sausage to the gravy and stir. Serve on top of buttermilk biscuits.
Monday, January 3, 2011
This Is What It's Like When Worlds Collide
Green Russell.
The name evokes a variety of questions: "What's that?" "Who is that?" and "Did you say 'Green Muscles?' I love mine in a nice white wine sauce."
But for those who know, the name Green Russell means a lot more.
Imagine a cold winter's night: The lights of the Big City reflect off the newly fallen snow. We exit the cab and walk down an alley way to follow the signs to a pie shop. Holding onto the frozen handrail, we cautiously descend a flight of stairs into a small pie shop store front. Through another set of doors and we are in a warm, cozy, softly lit speakeasy. But even for the costumes and ambiance, the real magic is yet to be revealed.
We give our names for the reservation and the hostess escorts us to our seats. We pass low leather chairs with high seat backs in intimate little nooks. There are no conventional tables as you would expect if you only ever visited chain restaurants or bars. In fact, the hostess seats us in a prime location: the bar.
Green Russell is "a chef driven cocktail joint." We have Chris, our bartender, and share him with only two other couples while we're there. Unusual to any bar, Chris is back lit by a large grow room, and while Colorado allows commercial growing of marijuana for medicinal use, I recognize the herbs growing in this grow room as something different: rosemary, thyme, oregano, Thai basil and lemon and lime trees.
As IS usual at any great cocktail joint, the staff is warm and inviting. Witty banter ensues. The menus are presented and yes, there are some cocktails listed. But we know better. I tell Chris, "I put it in your hands. I like scotch and bourbon--leather, smokey, woody flavors. I make my own bitters at home, so I enjoy herbs and aromatics."
And then he made magic.
Each drink is custom created for the client's taste. A bespoke cocktail, if you will. From a time when "cocktail" meant something.
We ordered house made potato chips with bleu cheese. My brother had a layered drink of Bowmore 10 year Scotch, Fernette Branca and Absinthe. I started off with a little number they called the George C Skag: bourbon, black pepper simple syrup, cardamom bitters and lemon juice. My wife enjoyed the most conventional drink: The Mile High Club--gin, yellow chartreuse, egg whites, and . . . other magic. We each had three drinks that night, plus food and coffee. I'll be honest with you. The recipes got fuzzy. Or maybe the recipes stayed the same and we got fuzzy. Regardless, we had an incredible time.
When you go to Green Russell, there are a few rules you need to know.
And Chris, thank you. Very much.
Tonight, for a pre-dinner cocktail try:
Cloister
1 1/2 oz Gin
1/2 oz Yellow Chartreuse
1/4 oz Lemon Juice
1/2 oz Grapefruit Juice
1/4 oz Superfine Sugar
Shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.
Man of War
1 1/2 oz Bourbon
1/2 oz Sweet Vermouth
1/2 oz Cointreau
1/4 oz Lime Juice
Shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lime twist.
Samurai
1 oz Triple Sec
1 oz Vodka
1 oz Sake
1 oz Lemon Juice
Pour over ice in a highball glass and stir.
The name evokes a variety of questions: "What's that?" "Who is that?" and "Did you say 'Green Muscles?' I love mine in a nice white wine sauce."
But for those who know, the name Green Russell means a lot more.
Imagine a cold winter's night: The lights of the Big City reflect off the newly fallen snow. We exit the cab and walk down an alley way to follow the signs to a pie shop. Holding onto the frozen handrail, we cautiously descend a flight of stairs into a small pie shop store front. Through another set of doors and we are in a warm, cozy, softly lit speakeasy. But even for the costumes and ambiance, the real magic is yet to be revealed.
We give our names for the reservation and the hostess escorts us to our seats. We pass low leather chairs with high seat backs in intimate little nooks. There are no conventional tables as you would expect if you only ever visited chain restaurants or bars. In fact, the hostess seats us in a prime location: the bar.
Green Russell is "a chef driven cocktail joint." We have Chris, our bartender, and share him with only two other couples while we're there. Unusual to any bar, Chris is back lit by a large grow room, and while Colorado allows commercial growing of marijuana for medicinal use, I recognize the herbs growing in this grow room as something different: rosemary, thyme, oregano, Thai basil and lemon and lime trees.
As IS usual at any great cocktail joint, the staff is warm and inviting. Witty banter ensues. The menus are presented and yes, there are some cocktails listed. But we know better. I tell Chris, "I put it in your hands. I like scotch and bourbon--leather, smokey, woody flavors. I make my own bitters at home, so I enjoy herbs and aromatics."
And then he made magic.
Each drink is custom created for the client's taste. A bespoke cocktail, if you will. From a time when "cocktail" meant something.
We ordered house made potato chips with bleu cheese. My brother had a layered drink of Bowmore 10 year Scotch, Fernette Branca and Absinthe. I started off with a little number they called the George C Skag: bourbon, black pepper simple syrup, cardamom bitters and lemon juice. My wife enjoyed the most conventional drink: The Mile High Club--gin, yellow chartreuse, egg whites, and . . . other magic. We each had three drinks that night, plus food and coffee. I'll be honest with you. The recipes got fuzzy. Or maybe the recipes stayed the same and we got fuzzy. Regardless, we had an incredible time.
When you go to Green Russell, there are a few rules you need to know.
- No cell phones. No calling, no texting, no checking in on Foursquare, no pictures. The staff abides by this rule, and you will too. Relax. You will enjoy it.
- The customer is always right. The people who are taking care of you love you. Love them back.
- You will pay for the privilege. Perfection isn't cheap. It's not excessive, but the value is exactly as it should be. And don't forget to tip.
- Take a cab. If you have enjoyed yourself appropriately, you should not drive. Everyone will love you more for being smart.
And Chris, thank you. Very much.
Tonight, for a pre-dinner cocktail try:
Cloister
1 1/2 oz Gin
1/2 oz Yellow Chartreuse
1/4 oz Lemon Juice
1/2 oz Grapefruit Juice
1/4 oz Superfine Sugar
Shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.
Man of War
1 1/2 oz Bourbon
1/2 oz Sweet Vermouth
1/2 oz Cointreau
1/4 oz Lime Juice
Shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lime twist.
Samurai
1 oz Triple Sec
1 oz Vodka
1 oz Sake
1 oz Lemon Juice
Pour over ice in a highball glass and stir.
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Wrapping Presents
My brother's birthday was early this month (Happy Birthday, My Brother!) and to help him with the celebration, we went to his house and made dinner. (I like it when someone else gets to clean up the house. Happy Birthday, My Brother!) I stuffed some pork rib chops with Parmesan cheese, dates, wild mushrooms and sage, and that got me thinking of our inclination of stuffing one food into another. The whole concept is glorious: take a good food and then stuff it full of more good food to make one super food. That is gluttony at its most crapulent! (And yes, that's a word. Look it up.) It's also delicious, and we who consume food nearly demand it. At restaurants, Stuffed Crab or Stuffed Lobster grace the menu of almost every seafood establishment. We like to dress up baked potatoes as Twice Baked Potatoes. Chicken Kiev, Chicken Cordon Bleu, Roulades, and Baked Alaska all fulfill our need to enhance the dining experience by putting more food into the food we started with.
Turducken. Need I say more?
So how can you create a new dish by stuffing one food into another? What do you need to look for?
First, of course, begin with flavors. Find compliments. Sweet and sour are a safe start for any savory dish, while acidic flavors are also good at cutting through heavy fats. But find a way to surprise the audience. Wrap bacon around a kumquat and use that combination to throw a culinary curve ball. Now stuff it into a Cornish Game Hens for roasting! Sweet, savory, rich, lightly acidic. . . Mmmmm! I'm making me hungry!
Next, think of the physics involved. How can you get enough space open to get the goodness in? A yin for the yang, if you will. You also want to figure out how to keep it in place. Remember that, when heated, some things expand and take up more volume. Also, when heated to sufficient temperatures, proteins contract and tighten their bonds making them both less elastic, as well as smaller. That juxtaposition nearly guarantees to squeeze out whatever stuffing you're attempting to stuff--unless preparations have been made. Fowl is easy: a natural cavity and supporting bone structure help. Whole fish is similarly easy. Mushrooms, potatoes and zucchini all work well. Steak, pork chops and chicken breasts will put up a fight. Employ butcher's twine, skewers or a crust or wrapper to help (think: puff pastry).
For those who haven't tried it before, here's a couple of recipes to get you started in the right direction.
Stuffed Mushrooms
8 large Button Mushrooms, whole, blemish free and firm
1 small Shallot (or Onion) minced, about 1 1/2 tablespoons
2 strips Bacon, chopped fine
2 teaspoons Bread Crumbs
Salt and Pepper, to taste
Cheese (I prefer sharp cheddar or pungent asiago, although Parmesan works well, too) sliced into little squares to cover the mushrooms
Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
In a medium skillet on medium high heat, saute the bacon until crispy. While cooking the bacon, clean the mushrooms, gently remove and chop the stems, leaving the the rest of the mushroom whole. When the bacon is about ready, add in the shallot and mushroom stems, salt and pepper. Saute until the shallots and mushroom stems are soft. Add the breadcrumbs, stir and remove from the heat.
Scoop the filling from the pan into the mushroom tops and place them onto a greased cookie sheet. Lay the slices of cheese over the top and pop them into the oven for 15 minutes or until the cheese is melted.
Be careful when eating. These bad boys can stay hot for a while!
Chicken Roulade
4 large, boneless Chicken Breasts
1/4 cup soft Cream Cheese
1 teaspoon dried Sage
1 teaspoon Thyme
2 teaspoons Parsley
1 teaspoon Lemon Zest
Salt and Pepper
Plastic Wrap
The secret to this dish is making it far enough in advance to let it chill firmly before cooking it.
Lay a chicken breast between 2 pieces of plastic wrap. Using a flat meat tenderizer (I use a large rubber mallet) gently pound out the breast until it is evenly flattened to about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. Repeat for all four.
Lay 2 flattened breasts on a fresh piece of plastic wrap, overlapping each other slightly. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then spread 1/2 of the cream cheese evenly over the chicken. (DO NOT use a contaminated knife or spoon to scoop another helping of cream cheese out of a container. That's how you get sick! And my mom would have a fit!)
In a small bowl, combine the sage, thyme, parsley and lemon zest. Mix to combine. Sprinkle 1/2 of the mixture onto the cream cheese.
Using the plastic wrap to help you, roll the chicken into a tight pinwheel log. Be sure to not roll the plastic into the pinwheel. Wrap the log tightly in plastic and refridgerate for 8 hours. Repeat with the other 2 breasts.
I prefer to cook the chicken on the stove top. While still cold, remove from the plastic wrap and lay the roulades into a hot greased skillet. Brown on each side, using tongs to turn it over. Reduce the heat to low, cover and let cook 5-10 minutes more, or until the center reaches 160 degrees on an instant thermometer. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)





