One Stop Shopping

I’ve been playing around with something. I’m actually thinking of dropping the spontaneity. (Insert *gasp!* emoji here.) I want to create a week's worth of diner menus that are easy and quick to prepare and I only need to go to the store once for the week. They should be well rounded and (sort of) nutritious. And of course, the meals must taste good.  For the next few weeks, I'll try to give this my best go and see how things turn out.  Critique and suggestions are welcome.  (My ego will be crushed with criticism, but my menus will improve.)

Week 1:

Day 1:

Fried chicken with mashed potatoes and spicy glazed kale

Ingredients:

1lbs chicken tenders and/thighs
2 medium-large russet potatoes

4oz plain low fat yogurt (it comes in 8oz containers, but we will use the rest later)
I clove garlic
8oz fresh kale
2 dashes cayenne pepper (more or less to taste)
3 tbsp Maple syrup
1/3 cup flour
1/3 cup corn meal
1 egg

Prep time: 10 minutes
Put a large pot of water on to boil.
Wash and dry the fresh produce.
Medium dice the potato (a larger than playing dice)
Using the side of your knife, crush the garlic and remove the peel
Remove the thick stem and rough chop the kale
But flour on 1 plate, cornmeal on another, and thoroughly beat the egg in a medium bowl

Cooking time: 25 minutes
Add the potatoes and garlic to the boiling water. Cook for 16 min or until the potatoes are soft when pierced with a fork. When cooked, drain the water, add the yogurt, a drizzle of olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Mash with a fork. Set aside in a warm place.

While the potatoes cook, pat the chicken dry and season both sides with salt and pepper. Dredge the chicken through the flour, then the egg, then the cornmeal. Heat 4 tablespoons of olive oil a medium skillet (non stick if you have one) on medium high. Add the chicken to the pan of hot oil. Cook 3-4 min per side. Set aside, covered, in a warm place. Empty the hot oil and wipe out the pan.

In the same pan heat 1 tbps oil to the pan on medium high heat. Add the chopped kale and cook for 3-4 minutes. Add 1/3 cup water, maple syrup and cayenne, salt and pepper. Stir gently and cook until the liquid has mostly cooked off.

Serve!

Day 2:
Pork chops with peach chutney
Vegetable Rice stir fry

Ingredients:
12-16oz pork loin
1 peach (fresh if ripe; frozen is fine; canned if that’s easier)
Any or all of cinnamon, coriander, cloves, bay leaf
2 oz fresh ginger
1 tbps white vinegar
2 carrots
1 small onion
1 clove of garlic
1 small head of broccoli
1/2 cup basmati rice

Prep time: 15 min

Peel the carrots, cut in half lengthwise, and cut into 1/8th inch slices.
Peel and small dice the onion.
Peel and finely mince the garlic.
Peel and finely mince the ginger.
Remove the bottom of the broccoli stem and chop the florets into small bite-size pieces.

Cooking time: 30

In a small pot, add rice, one cup of water and a generous pinch of salt. Cover, bring to a boil, then cook for 14-16 minutes. Fluff with a fork and set aside, covered.

While the rice cooks, pat the pork chops dry and season both sides with salt and pepper. To a large frying pan over medium high heat, add 1 tbsp olive oil. When hot, add the pork chops. Cook 6-7 minutes, flip them and cook for 6 more minutes. Remove from heat and let rest for at least 5 minutes. Leave the fond and any remaining oil in the pan.

While the pork chops cook, in a small pan heat a drizzle of olive oil over medium high heat. Add the peaches, 1/2 of the onion, ginger and ground spices. Stirring slowly and constantly, cook until the peaches break down and the onions are soft and the whole pan is aromatic. (If the peaches aren’t breaking down, mash them gently with a fork.) Add 1/2 cup water and the vinegar, season with salt and pepper and reduce heat to medium low. If you were going to add a bay leaf, now is a good time to do it. Stir gently and occasionally until most of the water has cooked off.

To the pan from the pork chops, (still over medium high heat) drizzle a little more olive oil. Add the other 1/2 of the onion, and all of the carrots and broccoli. Season with salt and pepper. Stir until the carrots have softened slightly. Add the garlic and stir for another 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add the cooked rice. Stir until the vegetables are mixed into the rice, then cook for 3 minutes without stirring. With a spatula, scrape the rice off the bottom of the pan and stir to mix. Repeat.

Slice the pork chops against the grain, place on a plate and top with the chutney. Serve with the rice. Enjoy!

Day 3:

Poached Salmon
Pasta shells with garlic butter and caper sauce
Spinach salad

Ingredients: 

 8 oz salmon filets, skinless (in two 4 oz pieces)

1/4 cup white wine (optional)

2 tsp whole black peppercorns

1 tsp whole allspice

6 or 7 whole cloves

1 bay leaf

2 cloves garlic

1 tsp lemon juice

6 oz small pasta shells

2 tbsp butter

1 tbsp capers

6 oz raw (baby) spinach

3 radishes 

2 tbsp red wine or cider or rice wine vinegar

1 tsp sugar

Prep: 8 minutes

Set a large pot of water on to boil.  Add a healthy pinch of salt

Rinse and dry the spinach

Peal and crush one clove of garlic; peel and finely mince the other clove. Using the side of your knife, press the garlic into a paste

Wash and dry the radishes.  Slice into thin rounds

Coarsely chop the capers

Cooking time: 30 minutes

When the water is boiling in the pot, add the pasta.  Let boil for 10-12 minutes, or per the directions on the package. (I usually give it a good stir once or twice early on to make sure the pasta isn't sticking to the pot or to each other.)  When it's cooked, rinse and return to the pot.  Stir in a light drizzle of olive oil and keep the pot in a warm (but NOT hot) place.

While the water comes to a boil, in a small dish, mix the sugar and vinegar until the sugar has dissolved.  Add the radishes to the marinade and season with salt and pepper.  Stir occasionally for at least 10 minutes.

In a large saucepan (nonstick or well seasoned is best), bring 3/4 cup of water, white wine, peppercorns, allspice, cloves, bay leaf and whole crushed garlic clove to a light boil.  In the meantime, pat dry the salmon and season with salt and pepper on both sides. Reduce the spiced liquid to a simmer and gently add the salmon.  Cover and let simmer for 8-12 minutes depending on how thick the fillets are.  The meat should be lightly cooked through and flakey. Place on a warm plate, cover and keep in a warm place.

Strain the liquid but reserve as much as you can. Discard the spices. Add 1 tbsp of butter to the pan and heat on medium heat until melted and still foaming and yellow. (Browned butter is too dark for this recipe.) Add the garlic paste, stir for 20-30 seconds. Start adding the lemon juice and the poaching liquid.  Probably 1/2 cup is enough, or a little more if you want a thinner sauce.  Stir consistently and bring to a simmer.  Reduce the sauce until it is slightly thickened.  Remove the pan from the heat. Add the capers and the remaining butter, stirring until it's melted.  Add the cooked pasta and stir until it's evenly coated.  Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

In two bowls, divide the spinach, top with the radishes, reserving the liquid.  Drizzle the salad with olive oil and add salt and pepper.  Drizzle the remaining radish marinade to the salad. 

Plate the pasta and top with the warm salmon.  

Day 4:

Siracha hamburgers
Sweet potato fries

10-12 oz lean (92-95% lean) hamburger
1 tbsp. Siracha
2 tbsp. mayonnaise
2 hamburger buns
Optional: lettuce, tomato, onion, Havarti cheese

1 lb sweet potato

Prep and cooking time: 25-35 minutes
Heat oven to 450 degrees. Wash or peel the sweet potato. (I like the peel on.)  Slice in half lengthwise, then into wedges.  Drizzle olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Toss to evenly coat. Bake on a cookie sheet for 12 minutes, then flip. Bake for 10-12 minutes more.

Slice and prepare any toppings you want to add.

While the sweet potatoes bake, divide the hamburger in half and work each half in your hands until uniform in consistency; form into patties. Season with salt and pepper. Heat a skillet on medium high
and add olive oil.  When the oil is hot, carefully add the patties, seasoned side down.  Season the other side with salt and pepper.  Cook for 3-5 minutes, depending on how done you like it.  Flip and cook for another 3-5 minutes.  If you are adding cheese, now is the time to do it. Lay the slices on top of the burgers.

While the burgers cook, mix the mayo and Siracha in a small bowl.

When burgers are done, plate and keep in a warm place.  Keep the pan on the heat and keep the drippings in the pan. Open the buns in half and lay them into the pan. Cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute.

Spread the mayo mix into the open faces of the buns, add the burger, top with any toppings you wish, serve with the sweet potato fries on the side.

Day 5:

Stuffed Portabella Mushrooms 
with toasted Brussel sprouts 

Ingredients:
2-4 large portabella mushrooms
1 tbsp butter cut into as many pieces as you have mushrooms
1 small onion or 1 large shallot
2 small sweet peppers 
1/4 cup dried bread crumbs
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese, plus a little more for topping
10 oz Brussels sprouts
1/2 cup walnuts

Prep time: 10 minutes
Heat your oven to 400 degrees
Wash and dry all of the fresh ingredients
Remove the stems of the mushrooms, and set the tops to the side.  Mince the stems and place in a large bowl. Peel and mince the onion or shallot. Deseed the peppers and mince.
Cut the ends off the sprouts and slice in half lengthwise.  Coarsely chop the walnuts.

Cook time: 25 minutes
In a large skillet, heat one tablespoon of olive oil over medium high heat.  Add the stems, onion, peppers, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 3-4 minutes stirring constantly until the onions are translucent and the peppers are soft. Drain any liquid and wipe out the skillet.  In a large bowl, combine the cooked vegetables (still warm but not hot), bread crumbs and the 1/4 cup of parmesan cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly. Invert the mushroom caps and lay them flat on a cookie sheet lined with foil or parchment paper.  Add a piece of butter into each of the tops. Spoon the filling evenly into each of the caps. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese.  Bake for 10-12 minutes or until the cheese has toasted.

While the mushrooms are baking, heat a drizzle of olive oil in the same skillet.  Add the Brussels sprouts cut side down and cook for 3 minutes without stirring.  Toss and continue to cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper.  Add the walnuts and cook for 1 more minute.

Plate and serve.  

Day 6:

Shrimp Fajitas

Ingredients:

24 oz  shrimp, peeled and deveined

1 yellow, red and orange bell peppers

1 red onion

olive oil

salt & pepper

2 tsp chili powder (I like medium Chimayo chili powder.)

1/2 tsp garlic powder

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1/2 tsp smoked paprika (I like hot; my wife likes sweet)

lime

fresh cilantro (optional)

warmed tortillas 

Prep Time: <10 min

Heat oven to 425º

Rinse the shrimp and wash the bell peppers

Slice the peppers and onion into thin slices

Dry the shrimp on paper towels, season with salt and pepper

In a small bowl, mix the spices together

Cook time: 12 min

In a large mixing bowl, combine the shrimp, onions and peppers, drizzle with olive oil (about 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons). Toss to evenly coat. While continuing to toss, sprinkle in the spice mix. 

Line a baking sheet with tinfoil and drizzle a little olive oil and spread it evenly over the foil. Spread the vegetable and shrimp over the foil and stick it in the oven.  Bake for 8 minutes then broil for 2-3 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven, squeeze some limes over the top and put it all into a hot bowl. Sprinkle some chopped cilantro and serve with warm tortillas.

Day 7: 

Rest. God thought it was a good idea so it’s probably good for us too. Dine out. Order in.  Eat leftovers. Just take it easy tonight.

For My Mom

I love my mom. She has a gift for laughing at my jokes. She let’s me win occasionally at cribbage or dominos. She raised my brothers and I to ask questions. And she loves to cook. She’s good at it. I have a passion for food in large part because of her. 

Whenever we get together now, be it for a week, a weekend or even overnight, she has me (and/or my brother if he’s along) prepare a meal.  (My other brother is out of state and doesn’t visit as much, otherwise the same is asked of him.) All of us love to cook and we all take pride in our respective expertise. I admit however, that I probably fail the most. I’m not good at following directions; never have been. It’s not because I can’t. I am compelled to do things my way, just to see if I can. I make things up and fly by the seat of my pants. It’s an ego thing. When it works, I look like a freaking genius. When it doesn’t, I apologize all over the place and blame outside circumstances. My brother has rightly pointed out that my biggest cooking flaw is timing. In trying to control for that, I like reducing as many moving parts as is possible. One pot cooking, or casseroles are the easiest, followed by some kind of meat dish with mashed potatoes and a side salad of greens. Something easy. 

When I’m with family, I’m a little more experimental in flavors and technique. I try to make it all work, but maybe the timing is off or the flavors don’t quite come together. My mom is still kind, loving and forgiving. She still says how much she loves the dish, even if no one actually does.  She’s good for my ego.

I love my mom. 

This recipe worked really well. She loved it and wanted me to post it. I told her I would. As promised, here it is.

 Shrimp Pot Pie

2 sheets Puff Pastry

1 large Onion, small diced

3 large Carrots, small diced

3 Celery stalks, small slices

No one would fault you if you wanted to add some Garlic. 

3/4 cup chopped Mushrooms

2 lbs large Shrimp, shells off

1 cup White Wine

1 cup Heavy Cream

Bay Leaves

Thyme

Preheat oven to 400° 

I buy frozen puff pastry so I start thawing it out while I’m cutting up the vegetables. (If you make your own puff pastry I low key hate you. But I also admire you. Seriously though, stop it you show off.) 

In a deep skillet, on medium-high heat sauté the carrot for 3 minutes in a little olive oil. Add the onion and celery and sauté for another 3 minutes. Take the veggies out and set aside. 

Put the shrimp into the pan and spread them out so they are all on one layer. Sprinkle with dried thyme, or add sprigs if you are using fresh. Add the bay leaves. Cook for a couple of minutes and flip the shrimp. Cook for another minute (the shrimp should be slightly under cooked) and add the mushrooms. Turn the heat down to medium low-ish. Add the vegetables back into the pan. Season with salt and pepper. 

Pour in the white wine and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the sprigs of thyme and bay leaves. Pour in the cream and return to a simmer. 

While simmering, roll out your puff pastry following the package instructions. (If you made your own, screw you; you know what you’re doing. But also, I am impressed.) Turn off the heat on the stove—it’s good now. Flip your deep pie dish upside down on one sheet of pastry and cut a circle a little large than the size of the pie dish. With the other sheet of pastry, cover the bottom and sides of pie dish, and trim it, leaving enough to overlap the edge of the upcoming pastry “lid.”

When the shrimp and goodness filling has stopped bubbling, use a slotted spoon and start filling up the pie. When everything is separated out, pour some of the liquid over shrimp mix. I used about half. This is the “gravy” in the savory pie. Use as much as you like. 

Top the pie with its pastry lid and crimp the edges. Poke holes in the top and stick that pie into the hot oven, on the center rack.

Bake for 30-35 min or until the top is a deep browned color and the goo inside is bubbling. Take it out of the oven and let it rest for 10 minutes. Serve and eat. (Serves 8. Or 4 gluttons.) 

Yeast Food and Bacteria Poop

I have a confession to make. I really like Dungeons & Dragons. It feeds the storytelling part of my life. I like solving problems and discovering what’s around the next corner. I like killing monsters. And I love having superhero-like abilities through magic. Not up close card tricks, but big magic. Conjuration, transformation—the ability to create something out of nothing, and to turn that something into something even more exotic. 

Fermentation does just that. From seemingly nothing, growth begins. What could be spoiled food—a culinary mistake, something common sense tells us should be thrown out—transforms foods we love. We’re talking about yeasts and bacteria and the outcomes of fermentation. 

I planned to build off that catchy hook of a title and sound brilliant. I’m not a scientist but I love knowing a little bit of science then feeling very smart when I talk about it with people at parties. It makes me fun and interesting to be around. No, really. (Many men like to be terribly smart and show off whenever we have the chance. It’s peacocking our brains.) Since I am not a scientist however, you should do your own research about the chemical goings on fermentation. Just google it. There’s a lot of information on the internet, as it turns out.  

But here’s what I do know: food is sometimes kinda gross. You don’t want to know what’s in your sausage, nor in a lot of other foods. Honey is basically “bee vomit” (bees have a nectar stomach). Alcohol and naturally sparkling beverages are yeast and bacteria “poop.” Naturally occurring yeast (which are a kind of fungi) break down sugars for the bacteria which continue the process of fermentation. Gasses and alcohol are the waste products of our friendly yeast and bacteria. The pleasing sour taste we enjoy in some of our foods happen when the bacteria keep going and the consume the alcohols too. I think. (Damn. I’m really trying to sound smart. Just google it.)

I present to you here a few fermentation projects and a promise that more will follow.

We looked at Sourdough in the last post. Sourdough uses naturally occurring yeast to ferment the gluten in wheat flour. It’s a natural leavener that helps bread rise. For thousands of years, people enjoyed puffy bread without the availability of packaged yeast. Here’s another recipe I like.

Sourdough Pancakes

2 cups All Purpose Flour

2 tsp Baking Powder

1 tsp Baking Soda

1 tsp Salt

2 tbsp Sugar

1 1/2 cups (plus more if needed) Whole Milk, although I prefer Buttermilk (I’ve used low-fat either one and it works fine)

1 Egg, beaten

1/4 cup Canola Oil (or other good cooking oil)

1 cup Sourdough Starter (fed, or “ripe,” means that it has eaten all the flour and may now be a bit runny)

Mix all of the dry ingredients in a medium bowl. 

Mix all of the wet ingredients in a large bowl. The starter may not want to mix well with the other wet ingredients. Keep stirring until it nearly does.  

Add the wet mixture to the dry ingredients and mix by hand until combined. YOU MAY NEED TO ADD MORE MILK. Depending on the flour (and relative humidity in the air, maybe the time of year, your height, weight and/or color of your hair...it still confounds me), the mix may be too stiff to start off. Do not panic. Just add more liquid. The mix will still be thick—not like cement, but more like a thick pancake mix that you have to scoop out rather than pouring it. 

Cook on a medium hot skillet. I start the first one with a little butter in the bottom of the pan, but I use well seasoned, non-non-stick pans. Cast Iron is great. The first pancake is always the wildcard. It should be a very tall rise. Tear it down the middle and taste it. If it’s good eating, then eat it. If not, make couple of adjustments. If it’s soggy in the middle, you’ll want to turn the heat down just a touch and cook the pancakes a little longer.  Soon you’ll be a pro. 

Serve it however you like your pancakes. If you’ve only ever had syrup on your pancakes, try them with sour cream and chives. Or with a sausage gravy. 

I’ve been making kombucha for a few years now. Fermentation enthusiasts make grand claims of the benefits of various fermented foods, and some claims have a scientific foundation. Good bacteria aid in gut health, especially after some kind of disruption, like taking a broad spectrum antibiotic. Antibiotics are anti-bacteria and it’ll take out the bad stuff that made you sick as well as the good stuff that helps keep you well. Kombucha, kimchi and yogurt are good for your belly bacteria. With kombucha, I’ve really enjoyed playing with flavors and experimenting with secondary fermentation. Here’s a little about getting started.

Kombucha

A Symbiotic Culture Of Bacteria and Yeast is essentially the starter for kombucha. It ferments the sugars in the liquid it sits in. People have fermented a variety of juices, but I haven’t tried it, yet. I’ll let you know when I do. I use tea and that seems to be most common.

The easiest way to make your own SCOBY is to buy a bottle of raw kombucha. Plain is best for it’s simplicity. Brew a gallon of very strong tea. I bring 4 quarts of regular old tap water to boil in a big pot. When it boils, turn the heat off. Stir in one cup of sugar until it’s fully dissolved. I use plain old white cane sugar. Then add 6 tea bags. You can use pretty much any black tea to get started. Plain old Lipton’s is fine.  Let it rest until the tea has come to room temperature. 

When it cools enough, pour it into a large glass jar with a wide mouth. I use a 2 gallon pickling jar. Pull the teabags out and pour the store-bought kombucha into the tea. Cover the jar with layers of cheese cloth or muslin. You want air to get in, but you want bugs to stay out. Put it a dark room temperature room and ignore it for two weeks. I label my kombucha batches with start dates on masking tape. After about 2 weeks the tea should have a layer of rubbery snot floating on top of it. That’s the SCOBY! You did it. If things go sideways on you and it smells funny or there’s patches of mold floating on it, dump it. If it smells vinegary, it’s good. If it smells like the sandwich that’s been in the work fridge for a week too long....throw it away. Clean the glassware again and start over.  If you’re still uncertain, have someone else taste it. If they die, then you know.  

As much as it doesn’t look like it, this is good kombucha.  And a very healthy SCOBY. 

When you have a SCOBY you like, make more strong tea in the same way as above. This time, however, use the SCOBY and 1 cup of the last batch of fermented tea instead of the store bought. Pour it back into the jar, return it to its corner of the room and ignore it for another 10 to 14 days. If you like your kombucha tart, let it rest for a full 2 weeks (or more if you really like that kind of thing). Less tart? Only 10 days. This is your drinking batch. Strain it and pour it into airtight bottles and pit it into the refrigerator. Cutting off the air and cooling it stops the fermentation. If you want bubbles in your kombucha, add a little honey to the kombucha before sealing the bottles and leave it at room temperature for a day of so before putting it in the fridge.  

Finally, I am starting Vinegar! Super simple so far, but it’s still working and I’m still experimenting. The good news: I’m not poisoned. I’m still alive. Therefore, I’ll keep writing and I hope to have good vinegar news next time. 

 

COVID 2020

2020. COVID. Lockdowns. Unemployment. Businesses closing. Borders closing. Political uprising. Protests from voices which needed to be heard.

We each had our own way of responding to the year, and many of us broke the monotony and anger cycles by starting new hobbies. We had more free time from not visiting friends and family. Same for me. I started several new hobbies which I truly enjoy, but I think I’m turning into a grandmother. Knitting, baking, making vinegar, canning. And I’ve taken to drinking tea and wearing cardigan sweaters. I plan to carry cough drops and hard candy. 

I do not deny the hardships many of us have faced, be it great loss or the whelming sense of  pent up emotions. Each of us have done the best we can with the tools we had. Well done, you! You’ve made it through 100% of your bad days. 

Besides turning into a grandmother, I’m returning to writing this blog so I can continue to document recipes that worked out well, and that I want repeat.  You’re welcome to join along. Let me know what you’ve tried in your own kitchen and what you’ve liked. Or what you want to try.

Sourdough Part 1

How I Treat a Sourdough Starter

Real talk. I couldn’t make a starter. I tried. I honestly did. In fact, I tried twice, but it got old before it’s time and just didn’t survive.

A very good friend gave me a starter. She knew my plight and took pity on me. 

The starter was healthy and came from a prestigious lineage: It was the child of Scout and the grandchild of Sprout. I named this child Scamp. It has since generated another offspring, Scooter. And then another sibling which I have passed to another of my best friends. 

That’s a beautiful part of sourdough. It’s alive and it’s a part of the celebration of life. It’s meant to provide for us just as we continue to sustain it.

First of all, I treat it like a pet. It needs food, water and a good growing condition. When I received it, it was in a glass quart canning jar. The lid was loose to let air in and out. It had already eaten so I fed it some more. 

100g starter

100g unbleached bread flour (I use King Arthur) 

60g room temperature water

I stirred all of the ingredients until it was well combined and the consistency of thick peanut butter, then put it back in the jar, lid loose on the top, and let it rest on the counter for an hour or two. Then into the fridge next to the milk. 

A week later, on Saturday morning, I took the starter out of the fridge and let it rest on the counter to warm up a little. I could have used it (or most of it) then, but I wanted to have a bit more to continue to grow and some to use. I split it into two and made sure I had enough to get 227g to cook with and still have more to grow. Now I have a lot of starter and usually make two loaves on the weekend and maybe biscuits or pancakes. 

Each week I repeat the process, usually on Saturday. If I need it midweek I take it out of the fridge and leave it on the counter for a day. If I’m a day or two late in feeding, It still seems alright. And I haven’t washed the original jar out. Scamp and Scooter are both happy and growing. 

For recipes, try:

Cheddar Cheese Biscuits 

Yields 6 biscuits that are too large for healthy eating 

120g unbleached flour 

2 teaspoons baking powder

3/4 teaspoon salt

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, super cold (I put it in the freezer for a bit first)

227g sourdough starter, unfed/discard

A fist full of shredded cheddar cheese (I don’t really measure this. If you have both hands cupped, the loose shredded cheese fills your hands)

Water, as needed

Preheat the oven to 425°F with the rack somewhere in the middle. I also have a baking stone on that rack. (I don’t know if this adds anything to the experience other than making me look like I know what I’m doing.) Grease a baking sheet, or line it with parchment. 

Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Using a box grater, grate the butter into the flour and toss together until the mixture is sort of well mixed. Add the cheese and toss together some more.  Add the starter, mixing gently until the dough is cohesive. Add water if needed to bring it all together. I probably over work it and it always turns out fine.

Dump the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, and gently pat it to about 1"-thick. 

Use a biscuit cutter to cut the biscuits. Use whatever size you want to get the biscuits you want. I use a vintage Bugs Bunny glass. The opening is about 3 inches across. It’s no biscuit cutter, but it works like a champ. 

Sprinkle any remaining cheese on top. 

Bake for 23 to 25 minutes, until they're golden brown.  The cheese on the bottom will get good and crispy.  

Don’t worry about how to store them. 

Sourdough Bread in One Day

227g Starter left out for 12-24 hours

604g Unbleached Bread Flour

2 1/2 tsp Salt

1 1/2 c lukewarm Water

You can use 1-2 tsp Yeast if you want a faster rise

Combine all of the ingredients in a stand mixer. Mix on low with a dough hook until everything comes together in a smooth ball, then mix it for a couple minutes more for good measure. 

Lightly dust a clean smooth surface with flour. Dump the dough onto the counter.  It’ll be a bit wet and sticky. You want that. Knead the dough for 7 minutes. I like 7 minutes but you can probably do a little more or less. Some people do a lot less, but I haven’t tried their bread. The dough gets smoother, but it doesn’t get elastic like you see on the cooking shows on TV. I think that’s ok. 

Put it into a bowl big enough to let it double in size plus a bit more room. Cover with plastic wrap and leave it in a place that stays around 70°F. Let it hang out for a few hours.  It’ll spread out in the bowl and it won’t really look like it’s rising for a while. And then it will. If you’re using yeast, it’ll rise in an hour or so. If not, plan on three hours, but in either case, check on it every hour to see how it’s going. 

When the dough ball has doubled in size, cut it in half and put each half into a VERY well floured cloth (like a tea towel), loosely wrap and lay each dough ball into it’s own large bowl. Let rise for an hour or so. After about 35 minutes, set the oven: 

For the oven and the bake, here’s what I do.  Adapt as you need to.

I use a large Dutch oven with a lid. Preheat the oven, with the Dutch oven inside, to 475°F. (I know I was using grams before and now I’m using Fahrenheit instead of Celsius. What can I say? I’m cosmopolitan.) I cut a couple pieces of parchment paper and sprinkle each with cornmeal. When the dough is risen to your satisfaction (you don’t need to go nuts with waiting; it will rise more when it bakes), put the loaf onto the cornmealed parchment. Don’t shake off the extra flour. Take a very sharp knife and cut two deep slashes across the top. This keeps the loaf from splitting as it bakes. Using the parchment, put the loaf into the Dutch oven.  Spritz water with a spray bottle over the loaf and then cover with the Dutch oven lid. Turn the oven up to 500°F. Set the timer for 15 minutes. When the timer goes off, take the lid off and turn the oven down to 475°F. Bake for another 20-25 minutes. The top should be a deep brown and the internal temp should be 190°F. Repeat with the other loaf. 

The hardest part is waiting while it cools, but give it a half hour. 

A Breakfast Post

I am working and banking up a handful of posts upcoming, but I want to give you a little something to chew on for the week.  (In the literary world, that is called a "pun."  I hope you liked it.)

A while back I talked about breakfasts being the most important meal of the day.  I want to revisit that topic, as I've been in the habit of eating more breakfasts and eating better in general.  Almost every morning I get up and work out and then eat at the office.  And I eat all morning.  Spaced over the course of four hours I eat 3/4 cup green lentils with cinnamon and sugar (recipe, below), an apple, a banana, four ounces of non-fat Greek yogurt and one or two hard boiled eggs.  Maybe some almonds and dried blueberries. 

So what's the key to eating this much and this nutritiously everyday?  Planning and flavor.  Let's be honest, I'm not very motivated toward being responsible.  I'm a kid at heart.  I hate wearing a seatbelt (sorry Mom), I don't floss often enough (sorry Dr. Sadar) and I wouldn't eat my breakfast unless it's tasty and I don't have to work hard at that hour to make it. 

So, I keep it simple.  Sunday night, I put one and a half cups of dried lentils in a large bowl and add 2 cups water to soak over night.  Monday morning, when I wake up and start working out, I rinse the lentils and put them in the pot to boil.  I let them simmer and by the time I'm done with one work out, I have a week's worth of breakfast lentils.  Yipee!  (Ok, that's an over-reaction.  They are just lentils.)

This is simple, but meaning stuff.  Little changes make big changes possible.  Who knows?  Maybe I'll even start wearing my seatbelt. 


Green Lentil Breakfast
1 1/2 cups Dried Green Lentils (Pick through them. You never know what debris you'll find.  I've found other seed pods, stalks, even small rocks.)
2 1/2 cups Water
2 3/4 cups Water
1 1/2 teaspoon Salt
Cinnamon
Sugar

In a large bowl, soak the lentils in 2 1/2 cups of water for at least 8 hours. 

Rinse the lentils in a sieve and put them into a large pot, and sprinkle with salt and add the remaining water.  (For an extra treat, add 6-8 green cardamom pods.)  Bring to a boil, then simmer for 20-25 minutes.  The lentils should be tender, but not mush. 

Sprinkle with a mix, 1:6 ratio, of cinnamon to sugar.  Stir in and eat hot or cold.  (I like to let the lentils cool and then store in individual serving containers.)


And just because you've been good:

How to Hard Boil an Egg
Most people abuse the hard boiled egg because they believe they can't screw it up.  You can screw anything up.  You know that rubbery egg white and a yolk that has a green lining around it?  It's over cooked.  This will help.

1 Egg
3 cups Water (at least)

In a sauce pan, add at least three cups water.  You want a lot of water so the temperature of the water doesn't drop when the egg(s) are added. 

Bring the water to a boil.  Add the egg.  Return the water to a boil as fast as possible (i.e. put the lid on the pot), reduce your heat to a low rolling boil and cook for 11-12 minutes.  (This is at my altitude.  I'm a mile above sea level.  You will only need about 9-10 minutes at sea level.)

Immediately drain the eggs and soak them in ice water.  You want to stop them cooking as quickly as possible.  Level them soak in ice water for 15-20 minutes. 

Eat them however you wish.  I like hot sauce on mine. 

Saffron G & T in Dessert Form

This is a little experiment I cooked up last night. 

The foundation was laid at a bar in Palma on the island of Mallorca, Spain.  First:

The Saffron
3oz Dry Gin
1 pinch Saffron, crushed
3 Green Cardamom Pods
6oz Tonic Water
Ice Cubes



The Saffron and
The Basil and Thyme Gin and Tonics.
At the Quinacreu Restaurant in Palma.

In a large rocks glass, combine gin, saffron and cardamom pods.  Stir thoroughly and let rest for at least 5 minutes.  Go do something else.  Relax--it'll still be here when you get back. 

Add ice and top with tonic water and stir gently.  Garnish with an orange twist. 

Carry it out to the veranda and sit down.  Sip. 

Ok, the drink is great and the yellow saffron adds not only an exciting color, but an amazing sweetly-warm flavor.  Can it be enhanced?  Shared?  Made into a dessert?

I love a challenge:

The Saffron G&T in a Gelatin Mold

7oz Dry Gin
2 pinches of Saffron, crushed
1 cup Water
1 cup Sugar
6 Green Cardamom Pods
1/2 cup Water
2 packets powder Gelatin
8oz Tonic Water

In a glass or glass measuring cup, put the saffron into the gin.  Stir and then let rest. 

In a small sauce pan, heat 1 cup of water, the sugar and the cardamom pods.  Bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar melts, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. 

While the sugar mixture is simmering, sprinkle the gelatin over the 1/2 cup water in a large bowl.  (Large enough to hold more than 4 cups of liquid.)  Let the gelatin "bloom" (absorb water).  No need to stir--just make sure there is enough surface area to evenly sprinkle the gelatin. 

Remove the cardamom pods, then stir the hot sugar mixture into the gelatin.  Stir for 5 minutes or until the gelatin is completely dissolved.  (If the gelatin still has lumps, pass once through a finemesh strainer.)  Put it into the refrigerator and let cool for 20 minutes. 

Add the gin and saffron mixture, as well as the tonic to the gelatin, stir briskly to add air bubbles (a pretty little visual treat) and pour into a gelatin mold.  Pop it back in the fridge and chill for 4 hours. 

The drama of dessert!

To remove the gelatin from the mold, soak the mold in a large bowl of hot water for 15 seconds.  Make sure the water doesn't pour over the edge and into the gelatin.  Remove from the water, put an inverted plate over the mold and quickly flip it all over.  The mold should lift right off. 

Slice and serve.  (Try it with pieces of dark chocolate.)

A letter from Spain

Hello friends and relatives.

We have traveled to the foreign soils of the Iberian Peninsula, to the town of Barcelona, and in our initial foray, have beheld numerous sights leading to these shared observations.

First, the people of Europe look categorically malnourished by American standards, although there is hope. Whereas I've noticed the healthy girth of American waistlines and shorts that ride up as one walks down an American street, the same features are far less prevalent in our friends across The Pond. Many women, for example, have thighs which barely touch as they walk!  Blessedly, now and then, we can see the native German or Italian or sometimes even Spaniard with a shirt or pant-size of which to be truly proud, and this gives my heart encouragement. Still, the Dutch and Swedes are far too tall, winsome and thin to be fully equipped for general healthy living let alone their long winters.

Which leads me to my Second Important Point: I believe the food to be the cause of the generally lean nature of these inhabitants.  The cuisine here focuses on delicious cured meats, recently caught seafood, fine cheeses and fresh fruit and vegetables. Even the toast is spread with wholesome olive oil and a thin tomato juice--the natives literally rub a fresh, sliced, juicy tomato over the bread toasted in olive oil. Granted, there is wine plenty enough to spare, but with the wholesomeness of the cooking, one must consume vast quantities of both to maintain one's fortitude. Blessedly, the Catalonians are generous by their very nature.

Many in Spain walk the streets looking for such sustenance. The shops and restaurants are open late (10:00 pm to 12:00 am is standard for dining) and the sidewalks are wide to accommodate their numbers. Roads lace and interweave with these walkways and are filled with speeding taxi cabs and vehicles of the sporting wealthy class. You see, it appears to be a great entertainment for the walkers--possibly as a brief diversion from there plighted march to the next feeding station--to dodge among the vehicles zipping past. In their turn, the cars and motorbikes seem to speed up if their headlights catch the sight of human prey in their sweep. Although the odds seem to favor the automobile by the sheer numbers of pedestrians in the street, still we have not seen the fallen footman taken by their determined nemesis. This dodging and darting seems to be frivolous sport, burning precious calories.

There exists, along this treacherous migration, some respite. When the enthusiasm for the sport has waned, we've witnessed small packs of participants reclining on any of the numerous benches provided by the city founders. If benches are too distant, these same weary sojourners will squat in nearly any doorway, alley or parking garage. The poor, confused waifs, in an attempt to satiate their ever-present hunger (owing to their being so thin), have taken to putting all nature of things in their mouths, most commonly, lit cigarettes. Sadly, cigarettes depress appetite but do nothing for adding needed pounds. 

Perhaps the cigarettes are aging their population.  Observe: throughout your day, in Europe or even back home, you will witness the grizzled and weathered faces of elderly men or women holding cigarettes between their knotted fingers.  However, you will never see the same haggard, wrinkled visage on the obese.  I firmly believe that our extreme calorie count preserves our youth--right up to the day we die.

We depart this fascinating city, half a world away from you all, in the morning. I will send more news as events warrant.

Humbly yours,
--M

If you feel the need to try something tasty and not very fattening, try:

Catalan Tomato Toasts

2-3 slices of Bread per person
Olive Oil
1-2 ripe Tomatoes per person (the big round ones, not Roma or Plum tomatoes--those are too dry)
pinch of coarse Salt and cracked Pepper, if desired

Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a flat bottomed skillet on medium to medium high heat.  Lay the bread in to fry, 2-3 minutes or until they're cooked the way you like them.  Turn over and toast the other side in the remaining oil (if there is any) for 1-2 minutes.  Remove the toast to a warm plate.  Repeat with the rest of the bread.

Cut the tomatoes in half. While the toast is hot, rub the cut side of the tomato into the toast, letting the bread absorb the juice and seeds and pulp.  Use a half of a tomato for every 1-2 pieces of toast. 

Sprinkle with a little salt and pepper if you like that sort of thing.  I do.

Serve by itself or on a platter with meats, cheeses and dried fruits.



Satire noun (\ˈsa-ˌtī(-ə)r\)

1: a literary work holding up human vices and follies to ridicule or scorn

2: trenchant wit, irony, or sarcasm used to expose and discredit vice or folly

Jiggles

The heat of the summer recalls experiences of my youth.  I remember catching bugs in the field around our house.  In my mind, I can almost taste the lemonade we'd make.  I recall playing naked in the sprinkler in our front yard, and sliding across a slip and slide.  (I almost said, "like it was yesterday," but that would be awkward, and maybe illegal.) 

And I remember Jell-O.  What a wonderful food that combines the bright colors, the hyper-fruity flavors and the wonderful, jiggly bounce. 

While recently visiting my parent's home, my mom gave me a book (OK, Mom. You  "loaned" me the book): Joys of Jell-O.  It's a very quaint and charming bit of nostalgia--You can imagine the book or any of the recipes in it as a prop on the set of Mad Men.  The recipes are shameless plugs for all things Jell-O and General Foods (now Kraft Foods) brand foods, and it is clearly written for the 50's or 60's housewife.  (This particular copy appears to have been published in 1962.)  It speaks of tending to the children, pleasing the husband, and being the perfect hostess. 

A more recent and cosmopolitan tome, Hello, Jell-O, explores a more adult side of gelatin confections.  Elevated to a true art form, the author Victoria Belanger, creates works of culinary (and sometimes alcoholic) masterpieces.  Best of all, she's made her own mistakes and provides the solutions for your potentially faulty experiments.  I highly recommend this book.

These both inspired me to explore more possibilities.  As you may recall, in a previous post I tried using agar-agar to make vegan panna cotta, but it yielded less than stellar results (although it made a very good ice cream).  I've continued to play with agar-agar in various forms and with increasingly interesting results.  Then I learned more about molecular gastronomy and I journeyed farther down the gelatin path. 

There are also creations that seem like gelatin but use other ingredients to form a semi solid or slow moving liquid.  Jellies, jams, or my favorite, Turkish Delight.

I know this is but a short intro into fun things coagulated, but I hope you'll join me in exploring further. 

Tonight try:

Gelled Blueberry Dessert
4 1/2 cups Blueberry Nectar
2 packets Unflavored Gelatin
1 8oz container Mascarpone Cheese
Strips of Lemon Zest
fresh or frozen Blueberries

Pour one cup of blueberry nectar into a shallow bowl (more surface area is better) and sprinkle 2 packets of gelatin evenly over the surface.  Let rest.  Meanwhile (I realize I've never used that word in a recipe before. That changes now.)  boil the other three cups of juice.  Let boil for 10 minutes. 

In a large mixing bowl with a spout (which just makes the next step easier) whisk the cold bloomed gelatin together with the hot juice.  Continue to whisk for 3 minutes.  You really want all the gelatin dissolved. 

Pour into 6 ramekins, leaving 1/4 inch of space below the top.  Refrigerate for 3-4 hours or until the gel does not stick to your finger when you touch it. 

Spread the mascarpone over the top of the blueberry gelatin up to the top of the ramekin, evenly.  Let set in the refrigerator for another 10 minutes. 

To loosen the gelatin from the ramekin, set into hot warm water, up to the edge of the ramekin for 15 seconds. (Follow the instructions.  Make it on the hot side of warm, but not hot.)  Run a butter knife between the ramekin and the gelatin to separate it.  Wipe the ramekin dry, and place an inverted plate over the top of it.  In one fluid motion, turn over the plate and ramekin and give it a slight jiggle.  Lift the ramekin up to release the gelatin.  A properly turned out gelatin mold is one of the greatest satisfactions in life. 

Garnish with blueberries and lemon zest on the plate. 


Balsamic Pearls
Usually I buy Elsa 12 year Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, but for this recipe I used a grocery store brand common to balsamic vinaigrettes.  It yielded spectacular results, but choose as you will.  Agar-agar is a gelling agent made from seaweed.  It's especially useful in that it doesn't liquefy below 88 degrees F, and melts at 136 degrees F. 
3/4 cup Balsamic Vinegar
1 teaspoon Agar-Agar
1 quart Vegetable Oil, chilled in a Mason jar (I keep a Mason jar of oil in the refrigerator all the time, now)

In a sauce pan, add the vinegar and agar.  Whisk until the agar is well mixed.  Put the pan on a medium high burner and whisk for 3-5 minutes as the liquid comes to a simmering boil.  Remove from the heat. 

Using an eye-dropper or pipette, drop individual drops of hot balsamic into the cold oil.  They will coagulate on top, but keep adding slow drops.  The slower you go the smaller the pearls will be, so play with that. 

When you've used all the vinegar and the pearls are now mostly sitting on the bottom of this oil, pour the Mason jar through a sieve, catching the oil in a container underneath (recycle! and your plumbing will love you.), then remove the catch container and run cold water over the pearls to remove the oil. 

Use on a caprese salad or as you would a balsamic drizzle. 


Turkish Delight (Traditional)
Sometimes a gel doesn't include gelatin.  You can find rosewater in most Arabic or Indian specialty shops.

4 cups granulated Sugar

1 1/4 cups Cornstarch

1 teaspoon Cream of Tartar

4 1/4 cups Water

1 tablespoon Lemon Juice

1 1/2 tablespoons Rosewater

1 cup Confectioners Sugar

Vegetable Shortening

 

In a 9x9 inch baking pan, lube the sides and bottom with shortening. Line with wax paper and grease the wax paper. (You think that's a lot of slippery?  Wait until you see the sticky.  You'll be happy.)

In a saucepan, combine lemon juice, granulated sugar and 1 1/2 cups water on medium high heat. Stir constantly until sugar dissolves and the mixture comes to a boil. Reduce heat to low and allow to simmer, until the mixture reaches 240 degrees on a candy thermometer. Remove from heat, cover and set aside.

Combine cream of tartar, 1 cup corn starch and remaining (room temperature) water in saucepan over medium high heat. Stir until all lumps are gone and the mixture begins to boil. Stop stirring when the mixture has a glue-like consistency.

Stir in the sugar mixture. Stir constantly for about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low, and allow to simmer for 1 hour, stirring frequently.

Once the mixture has become a golden color, stir in rosewater. Pour mixture into the wax paper-lined pan. Spread evenly and allow to cool overnight.

Once it has cooled overnight, sift together confectioners sugar and remaining cornstarch.

Turn over baking pan containing Turkish delight onto clean counter or table and cut with oiled knife into one inch pieces. (Don't spare the oil.)

Coat with confectioners sugar mixture. Store in an airtight container in layers separated with wax paper.

More FAQ and Things You Should Know

I occasionally receive questions, often sent to me under the hats of the flying monkeys from Oz (the monkeys are smaller in real life), by the shouting newsies of the 1920's or, occasionally, through an electronic media.  I would like to answer a few of these questions in some common forum so that all may participate in the blessings I offer.

Q1. "I know you have a lot of amazing recipes.  Where can I find the full list of everything you've published?"

A1.  That's a great question!  While it's not a list of EVERYTHING I've published (some of those pictures I'm not proud of), you can look at the text beneath the header Beyond Viand on this page.  There is a string of links:

Home

What is "Beyond Viand?"

Index of Recipes

What Others Are Writing

I'm willing to bet you've already figured out the solution.  On a mobile device, you have a drop down menu that has the same links.  The one that says Index of Recipes.  That's the one you want.  Do look around there.  I even amaze myself with some of the recipes I've written.

Q2.  "As a child I used to ride my bike without a helmet, and I kept my mouth open.  I loved the feeling of wind through my hair and teeth.  Sometimes bugs flew into my mouth and down my gullet. As one who eats bugs, are there any lasting repercussions I should investigate more thoroughly?" 

A2.  Wow! What an unusual question.  While you really should have worn a helmet, I will still answer your missive.  Yes!  You probably know that insects are pound-for-pound higher in protein than almost any other animal protein, but you may have noticed from your bike ride, bugs can be hairy, sticky, gooey or crunchy.  The good news is, if you survived, you probably didn't eat anything poisonous, and even though they are toxic, Monarch Butterflies or Blister Beetles won't really hurt you until you eat a lot of them.  Unfortunately, the biggest concern about eating bugs from the wild are the pesticides.  The little bugs eat a surprising amount of leaves and grass while they grow and if those plants have pesticides on them, the toxins get into bodies of the bugs.  Eventually it will kill them, but in the meantime the toxins concentrate and become hazardous to anything that eats the bug: birds, lizards or kids riding bikes with their mouths open.  If you plan on eating bugs, it's probably best to buy them from reputable dealers who specialize in edible bugs.


Q3.  "Why don't you review more restaurants?"

A3.  I get that question a lot.  It's a good question, and the answer is nearly the same as why I don't want to work in a restaurant.  If I do it all the time, it becomes work.  I don't want to do work.  I do want to have fun.  This writing is fun, because people have very few expectations of me.  Besides, I have readers from all over the world.  Is someone from Morocco, Argentina, Russia or Malaysia going to want to hear about my latest crawl to the pub or diner?  (Well, maybe they would.) 
Besides, instead of a review, I write about the experience.  Good and bad restaurants can each have bad and good experiences. I cherish the good and I try to let the bad slip from memory.  Unless I get salmonella and rotavirus.  I remember that kind of thing.  (Remember: Wash your hands!)


Q4. "What's your favorite thing to cook?"

A4.  This is another common question, which unfortunately, doesn't have a very good answer.  I don't really have a favorite thing to cook.  I'll  get on a kick and dive deep into some themes, but that passes in time.  Occasionally, I return to old dishes I haven't tried in a while and they become my new favorite for a few days.  Most often I like variety so I seek to explore different methods, different flavors, and different ingredients whenever I can.  In fact, that may be my favorite thing to cook: the thing I haven't tried to make, or the dish I think I can improve. 


Q5.  "Are there any foods that are off limits?  Anything you refuse to try?"

A5.  You cut to the quick, don't you? 
There was that one time when I was flying with the Uruguayan rugby team over the Andes Mountains..... 
I think given the right circumstances, I could eat nearly anything edible. 
There's a lovely little book from the University of Virginia Press, Unmentionable Cuisine. It explores the taboos of foods from animals in cultures around the world and why some can eat one thing and others can't.   It's a fascinating read and when one pays attention to the premise and extrapolates to its conclusion one can get to the heart of the argument between vegans and omnivores.  What is right to eat?  Why is eating animal proteins good or bad?  If it's ok, why are some better than others?  Is it circumstantial?  I love asking questions like this.  My conclusion: while I've started eating many more vegetables, and with infinite respect to my vegan friends, I'm still firmly in the omnivore camp. 


Q6. What's for dinner?

A6. Tonight, try this:

Stovetop Meatloaf
1 1/2 lbs Ground Chuck
1 cup Bread Crumbs
1 Egg, beaten
1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce
1 tablespoon Olive Oil
1 Onion, chopped
1 clove Garlic, minced
Salt and Pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons Tomato Paste
2 tablespoons Mustard (I like good brown mustard, but yellow also does fine)

In a large bowl, combine ground meat, bread crumbs, egg, and Worcestershire sauce.  Mix by hand.

In a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat, warm up the olive oil.  Add the onion, garlic and salt.  Sauté until translucent, then add the skillet's contents to the meat bowl.   Add the tomato paste and mustard to the meat and mix it all by hand until it is uniform. 

Put the mix into the cast-iron skillet, press into the edges of the pan, and pat down so it's even everywhere.  Cook, covered, over medium low heat for 45 minutes. 

If you want to brown the top for a more appetizing appearance, pop the whole skillet under a broiler set on high for 5 minutes.  Serve hot.  Save the leftovers for sandwiches tomorrow!

The $110 Appetizer and the Gifts that Followed

Describing Venice as a "labyrinth" has the metaphoric equivalency of calling the Adriatic Sea "moist."  

Remember back to the SATs?  Venice : Labyrinth :: Adriatic Sea : ?

Get my meaning?  Good.  Then you'll understand what a remarkable feat it was even finding our hotel let alone the serendipity of finding one of the best restaurants in the whole city.

We took the train from Florence to Venice (assisted by a few very pleasant gypsies who helped fleece us out of 10 Euros more than they should have) and arrived at a train station.  Not entirely remarkable to itself, as we were traveling by train (see previous sentence), however, only in Venice will the train station be on the bank of a major water way trimmed in grand architecture dating back to the 13th to 18th centuries.  Speaking with the European tourists who frequent the city, we learned of the Vaporetti--the water buses that are the most commonly accessed water transport.  Studying multiple maps, we gained a good sense of what stop we needed and so we settled into the ride--jostling with locals and tourists from around the globe, and getting swept up in the sights of Venice.

We arrived at our stop, but on exiting the vaporetto, we had no markers to indicate which "street" would lead us to our hotel.  Wheeling our luggage behind us, we entered the closest alleyway to us.  As it turns out, everything in Venice that isn't water and isn't a building is either a bridge, a piazza or an alley.  And since the only land transportation is walking, size of alley doesn't really indicate the importance of the alley.  Wide alleys may dead end and narrow alleys may lead exactly where you want to go.  So it was with this alley we chose.  I remember thinking, "this can't be right," because the alley was so narrow I could not wheel two suitcases behind me side-by-side without scraping them against the 4-story buildings defining the passage way. 

We passed restaurants in open piazzas (mid-afternoon, so most were closed for lunch but may have served some light fare) then ducked back into another alley--still without any real idea of our direction.    By happenstance we glanced up an another alley we thought SHOULD be close to our destination, and there it was: our hotel.

We checked in, got the scoop from the boys at the front desk, toweled off (SO HOT and HUMID!) and then went back outside to explore. 

Venice is everything I wanted it to be and so much more.  I could go back tomorrow and enjoy it as if it were my first time. 

Initially, I had a mind to try and live on a budget.  This is probably the financial advisor in me, but I was really trying to shop and eat on the cheap.  At least until lunch on the second day.  We found a good, out of the way place (everything is sort of out of the way: did I mention that Venice is a maze?) and ate some really wonderful cuisine: frutti di mare.  Then everything sort of fell into place in my mind--like finding that one long piece in Tetris that clears all the rows:  I'm ME.  I love food.  Why would I punish us by avoiding some of the best food opportunities in the world?  Budget minded living gets you Olive Garden Venice.

We walked back to the hotel that night and past a little restaurant not 50 feet from the front of our hotel door.  We had passed it every time we went into or exited from our hotel, but with my newly renovated mindset, I noticed a basket of wild mushrooms, including boletes--mushrooms of the finest quality.  I used to hunt mushrooms in New Mexico and those were prizes, if found.  Their locations were closely guarded secrets by any mycologist lucky enough to find them.  Now, here they were, half a world away, and no less prized.  We told the maitre d' that we needed a shower but we would be back soon. 

They set a table for us upwind from the smokers (everywhere is a designated smoking area in Venice, doubly so outside) and we ordered a bottle of wine and asked how the chef recommended the mushrooms.  Like climbing the steps to Heaven, my taste buds ascended to levels of ecstasy they had never before known.  We split a serving of the boletes as an appetizer, then a shared course of risotto with seafood, we shared a small steak and vegetables, and finished with a panna cotta for dessert.  THIS!  This is what I know we deserved. 

We returned the next two nights, playing a repeat of that same theme: The second night having ravioli for an appetizer, a chanterelles risotto, seafood entree, more wine, more panna cotta. The third night we looked to blow out all the stops. 

Flashback:  I remember in college, The Old Towne Ale House had dollar beers and 10 cent wings on Wednesday nights.  Wednesday night became my night of gluttony, damned be the consequences.  And sure enough, the consequences usually damned me, some way, some how, either that night or the next morning. 

A voice in the back of my head may have whispered that this was about to happen again.  On a much larger scale.

Damned be the consequences? 

We told the maitre d' that we'd be back in 45 minutes and asked if we could have what had become our table.  We cleaned up and changed, and made our way back.  Our regular server had the night off, but we had seen tonight's server the previous nights and he had been prepared for our evening--looking forward to it, even.  We asked what he recommended for a bottle of wine to which he said the maitre d' recommends a very special bottle for us.  We accepted the personalized recommendation.  Let the stop blowing begin.  I asked about the mushrooms for the day, and there was a special treat: in addition to the chanterelles of the previous night, they also had a very beautiful, very large and very fresh truffle from the mainland. Truffle risotto?  Fillet with a truffle sauce?  We elected to have a simple saute of chanterelles for an appetizer, cuttlefish and pasta, the fillet et truffle and then we'd decide on something for dessert. 

The mushrooms came out of the kitchen and our waiter presented us two plates, as opposed to our customary one.  He hadn't been serving us the previous nights, and I hadn't thought to tell him that we share the courses. (In all honesty, each serving was exceedingly generous.  There would be no way we could each have eaten that much food without sharing, and we wanted to try as many dishes as we could.  Hence: sharing.)  We indicated our preference to our new waiter, but the appitizer damage was done.  And since we weren't really ordering from the menu, we didn't know the price.  We didn't think (want?) to ask, either. 

Damned be the consequences.  We ordered another bottle of wine.

We smiled and joked with the staff, with other patrons (Hello, John "James" Bond 006 3/4.  We agree, you didn't quite make it.) and passers-by.  We watched as people passed, women dressed to impress in their short dresses and high heels, staggering not at all on the cobbled walkways, the families with beleaguered children (or sometimes parents) in tow, the young, the old, the wealthy, the middle class, all flowing like water through the passageways of Venice. 

The hours passed and our evening started to wrap up.  My beloved excused herself to the women's room and our waiter and some of the staff joined me at the table.  I expressed my gratitude for the hospitality and the wonderful cuisine of the last few days.  I discovered that all of the ingredients are as local as possible and some--like the chanterelles, boletes and truffles--may be found wild.  They then presented the bill.

I would love to believe that I had a good poker face.  I knew the tab would be high.  I know I held it together well enough, because everyone was still smiling as my beloved returned with the maitre d',  having been introduced to our chef.  I paid the tab and kept the receipt.  Later I discovered the appetizer--those lovely chanterelles, hand picked and lovingly prepared--came to 75 Euros.  The rest of the dinner, the bottles of wine, all added up to a pretty penny.  Damn those consequences.

Rather than leaving, our maitre d' invited us inside (completely empty--for all the bustle of the restaurant, everyone wanted to sit outside) and offered us limoncello.  We sat and sipped and talked of good food and travel.  We shared some of our favorite recipes, and they presented us with a cookbook.  We shook hands and embraced as appropriate and we took our leave.  We waddled up to our room to go to bed for our last night in Venice.  The gondoliers still paddled through the tight canal, four stories below our window, their lanterns looking like fireflies dancing over the water. 

We reflected: the food was wonderful, the people were terrific.  The bill was large but worth it and the cookbook was a charming gesture of the hospitality of our hosts.  From one family who enjoys food to another.  The consequences were not that damned bad.

Here are a few interpretations of our favorite Venitian cuisine.  Buon appetito!

Sauteed Chanterelles
If you're lucky enough to get fresh chanterelles, that's great!  If you can't, don't despair: they dry well and can easily be reconstituted.  Simply simmer for 5 minutes in water, or white wine and water, or broth.  Remove from the heat and let stand, submerged in the liquid and covered for 10 minutes.  When they've softened, trim off the tough stem ends.  Reserve the liquid to flavor other dishes (like risotto).

1 1/2 cups fresh or reconstituted Chanterelles (I'm partial to Golden, but Black are also available and delicious)
1 1/2  tablespoons of Butter
1 large clove of Garlic, minced
1 small Shallot, sliced very thin
1/4 cup Dry White Wine
1 tablespoon Parsley, minced, plus a few whole leaves for garnish

(If the mushrooms have been reconstituted, saute them in a dry skillet for a few minutes to steam out most of the residual liquid.  Then continue.)  Melt the butter in a skillet on medium high heat until it stops foaming, then add the garlic and shallots.  Stir gently for 60 seconds (or one minute--your choice.  I'm not picky.) then add the chanterelles.  Saute for 2-3 minutes, moving them gently, occasionally.  Add the minced parsley and saute with the chanterelles for another minute.  Add the wine and reduce the heat to medium low.  Let simmer for 3-4 more minutes. 

Garnish with a couple of whole parsley leaves and serve hot.

Fruiti di Mare
Most every culture that exists near the sea has some kind of seafood stew.  I can't think of any that don't, but then again, I'm not really trying.  This is one inspired by the seafoods available locally in eastern Italy, but adapted for the supermarket fish available in the mountains of Colorado.

1 lb Shrimp, shelled and deveined
1/2 lb each of live Clams and Mussels
1/2 lb small Squid, cleaned and cut into rings (and tentacles if you're lucky enough to get the whole squid)
10 Roma Tomatoes, chopped
2 cloves Garlic, minced
1 large Shallot, sliced fine
3 tablespoons fresh Parsley Leaves, minced
1/2 cup White Wine
Olive Oil
Salt
Red Pepper Flakes
1/2 cup Chicken or Fish Stock
Pasta (spaghetti or linguine)

In a large pan over medium high heat, add 1/4 cup of olive oil.  Wait 30 seconds until the oil can be swirled easily in the bottom of the pan, then add the garlic, shallots, 1 teaspoon salt and 1 (slightly rounded) teaspoon of red pepper.  Stir gently in the pan until the garlic has softened. Add the white wine and stock and cover.  Let come to a simmer and reduce heat.   Add the clams and mussels and cover the pan again. (Take care to sort out any with broken shells or which have already opened.)  Let simmer for 10 minutes until the shells have opened. 

Add the chopped tomatoes and 2 tablespoons of  parsley.  Cover and let simmer for 5 minutes.  Add more wine and stock if needed. 

Start a large pot of salted water to boil.  Cook the pasta according to directions.

As you put the dried pasta in the pot, add the shrimp and calamari to the tomatoes and shellfish.  Cover the pot.  Cook for about 5 minutes then stir to mix everything.   The shrimp should be pink and the calamari white.  Cover and remove from the heat.

Drain the pasta, and in a large bowl, combine the frutti di mare and the linguini and toss once or twice with tongs.  Sprinkle with the remaining parsley.  Serve in individual bowls with a little crostini on the side.

Limoncello
My beloved has been making this for years, but has recently changed the recipe. This is a wonderful after dinner liqueur, or you can mix it with sparkling water for a summer afternoon treat.

2 large, organic Lemons
Cheese Cloth and String
a large Glass Jar with a Lid

750 ml Pure Grain Alcohol (Everclear)

1 cup Water

1 cup Sugar 

juice of the 2 Lemons

 

Wrap the lemons in a piece of cheesecloth and tie the ends like a satchel, leaving enough string on both ends to hang a few inches below the top of the jar. 

 

Pour the alcohol into the glass jar. Holding the string ends, make sure the lemon does not touch the alcohol. Secure the string around the mouth of the jar and close the jar tightly.  (If your jar does not have an airtight seal, you can seal the lid by wrapping the seam with adhesive tape.)  Leave the jar in a cool, dark place for 3 months.  (Beauty like this takes time. Deal with it.)

 

When ready, prepare a syrup by combining the cold water and sugar. Simmer over medium heat until the mixture boils and the sugar dissolves completely.  Remove from the heat and allow the syrup to rest until completely cool.

Unseal the jar, remove and juice the lemons. Pour the alcohol into a large jar along with the syrup. Add the lemon juice.  Mix very well. Pour the mixture through a coffee filter into a bottle.

Cork the bottle and let it rest for at least 1 week before using it.  Or as long as you can stand.  I think we waited about 5 minutes.