Sunday, August 29, 2010

Prunus Persica Doesn't Begin to Describe It!

"Took a little nap where the roots all twist,
squished a rotten peach in my fist,
and dreamed about you, woman."
--from Peaches by Presidents of the United States

We visited my folks, with the express intent of picking up peaches.  Their slightly-more-than-an-acre property is exquisitely manicured and possesses numerous fruit trees, blackberry and raspberry bushes, and vegetable and flower gardens.  Their trees are incredibly plentiful.  The gardens are bountiful.  The bushes are, well, bushy.  We brought home a bushel and a half of peaches, 9 quarts of canned peaches, and processed 7 pints of pineapple and peach jam.  We brought home a sack of cucumbers and summer squash.  We also brought home a gallon of blackberries my dad and I picked that morning.

Peaches are one of my favorite foods--the flesh and juice seems the perfect accompaniment to a hot summer day.  Eating a ripe peach from the tree refreshes and cools the body without being cloyingly sweet.  Sliced peaches partner with ice cream, on cereal or in rum with a mint garnish.  I am perfectly happy eating the skin having only rinsed it under a little water, but most people prefer to peel it entirely, removing all the fuzz.  If you are in the latter camp, the good news is that you can peel a ripe peach with your fingers.  Or if you have a bunch to peel, drop them in boiling water for 1 minute and then immerse them in an ice water bath.  That will loosen the skins so much that you then gently rub the skins right off.  Easy as can be!

For those of you who like learning things, the name Prunus persica implies that peaches originated in Persia (now Iran).  They didn't, but rather were carried there over the Silk Road from China, where peaches have been seen as symbols of longevity. 

Another true story: My wife an I had a small white flesh peach tree at our house in Santa Fe.  As it was just starting to produce fruit, we each promised the other that we wouldn't have a peach without sharing it with the other person.  After the fruit season ended we each confessed that peaches were eaten without sharing.  And without guilt. 

So as the summer winds down into fall, enjoy the fruits of the season. 

A few recipes to use up a bushel and a half of peaches:

Peach and Cucumber Salad
3 large ripe  Peaches, peeled and sliced into wedges
2 large Cucumbers, peeled and sliced into rounds
1/2 large white Onion, chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh Mint
1/2 teaspoon Salt
1/4 teaspoon Ground Black Pepper

In a large bowl, combine all ingredients and stir to combine the flavors. Add enough (about 1/4 - 1/3 cup) of the Maple Dressing (the following recipe), stir again and let rest for at least an hour before serving, to allow the flavors to blend.

Maple Dressing
1/2 cup Olive Oil (use the good stuff here)
1 clove Garlic, pressed
1 clove Shallots
1/4 cup Maple Syrup
1/4 cup Honey
2 teaspoons Dijon Mustard
2 tablespoons Apple Cider Vinegar

Mix all ingredients in a blender.  This dressing is also good on any greens salad.


Peach Chutney
2 tablespoons Olive Oil
1 star Anise
3 large ripe Peaches, peeled and sliced into wedges (overly ripe peaches work especially well)
1 medium Onion, chopped
2 cloves Garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon Salt
1/2 teaspoon Pepper Corns
1/2 teaspoon Whole Cloves
1/4 teaspoon Coriander Seed
1 tablespoon Hot (New Mexico) Chili Powder
3 tablespoons Vinegar (white or cider)
1 California Bay Leaf

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil on medium high and add the star anise.  Stir the star around the skillet for 2 minutes.  Discard the star and add the peaches, onion and garlic.  Sprinkle with salt and saute until the onions start to turn translucent.  Grind the pepper corns, cloves and coriander; stir in to the peaches.  Add the chili powder and vinegar; stir again.  Reduce the temperature to simmer and add the bay leaf. 

Add to chicken, pork or serve with toast points or crackers. 


Pineapple and Peach Jam
(Adapted from: Farm Journal Freezing & Canning Cook Book, ed. by Nell B Nichols, Doubleday & Company Inc, 1973)

12 large ripe Peaches
1 cup crushed Pineapple
the Juice and Zest of 1 large Orange
9 cups Sugar

Peel the peaches, and coarsely chop. Process 2 peaches at a time in a food processor for 5-7 1 second pulses.  (Pieces should be no larger than 1/4 - 1/2 inch.)

Combine all ingredients in a very large pan and cook at medium high heat for 30 minutes or until the jam is at the right consistency.  (It was nearly an hour for us because of the amount of juice in the peaches and our altitude.)

Ladle the jam into 1/2 pint jars (or if you are like us and don't have enough 1/2 pint, use pint jars) leaving 1/4 inch space at the top.  Clean the tops of the jars with a hot damp paper towel.  Seal with canning lids and tighten the rings to finger tight.  Place into the boiling water in a caner and process for 10 minutes. 

Remove the jars from the caner and place on a towel on a flat surface.  Let them cool and rest for 24 hours before jostling them around a lot (like driving with them in the backseat of my car from Canyon City to Denver.  Damn.)

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Data Mining, or The Defense of Facebook and The Joys of Coupons

Before you get into this blog, go to a new window and Google "Data Mining."  Go ahead.  I'll be here when you get back. 

So you noticed that there are a couple of companies that have bought space at the top to tell other companies that there is real gold in your virtual identities.  Next, you probably noticed that there was some basic info on what data mining is and how it works.  Then there are literally millions of links for and against it, and companies who do it.  At one extreme, Madison Avenue is clamoring to know who you are, what you do, where you shop, why you do what you're doing,  and most importantly, are you reliable enough to do it again?  At the other extreme are the conspiracy theorists who believe that any information you give exposes you to corporate and government moles who burrow deep into your psyche and control your mind.  My conclusion?  Both are right and maybe it's not all bad.

Think of your Facebook profile and what information it offers.  Mine says what company I work for, where I went to school, many of my interests, political and religious views, and what movies and television shows I watch.  For example, I watch Family Guy.  This provides a wealth of info for advertisers which will then allow them to advertise to me.  Besides having the sense of humor of a 12 year old boy, I am most likely male, age 20-45, college educated, earn between $50k and $125k, own my home, have a mortgage and am also likely to play MMORPGs (think: World of Warcraft).  This data is crosschecked through other surveys that people like me may have taken and then verified through other websites I visit. Commercials that appear on Family Guy (on television) use the info they've collected to customize their message to me.  Too bad for them, I also have TiVo.  But the ads on the sidebar of Facebook also use the info collected.  So I have offers recommending products like what I would see if I watched the TV commercials.  Facebook will also advertise to me what my friends have indicated that they like, too.  If I like you and you like that company X's product, I may like it, too.

"But this is a food blog," you say.  "You are rambling." 

I'll bring it on home now.  Have you ever been offered a customer loyalty card at your local supermarket?  If you swipe your card, you get a discount off of many products.  But guess what else they're doing: Yep.  Data mining.  They know how you shop and what you're likely going to buy in the future.  King Soopers will print out coupons tailored to my shopping interests.  As a matter of fact, my savvy and fiscally responsible wife saved 20% off of our last grocery bill ($35 from $175).  Suddenly, eating well isn't nearly so expensive!  The downside, however, is they also know when we're most like to go to the store.  If people like us most often go shopping once a week on a Saturday, and people like us regularly buy meat, cheese, eggs, milk, veggies and fruit, and toilet paper, we may have coupons for some of these things but an additional advertised sale may only run Monday through Friday.  (Click here for more information on how you could be sorted.)

So I am one of the willing masses who recognizes the trade offs between giving advertisers what they want in exchange for giving me what I want.  But if you fall into another camp of cocooning and insulation, please be aware: your smart phone, your credit and debit cards, your shopping habits, your GPS, your internet, Facebook, Foursquare, Twitter and LinkedIn accounts, and even your address and phone number already give away many of your secrets.  There is little refuge for the wary.  Having said that, and having confessed my willingness to be exploited, I leave you with this caution: "Understand and be aware."  And, "When in doubt, follow the money trail."

Our coupon-saved cuisine tonight:

BBQ Pork Ribs
3 lbs rack of Pork Ribs (or Pork Shoulder Ribs, sliced by the butcher)
Salt and Pepper, to taste
BBQ Sauce (see the recipe, below)

Sprinkle salt on the ribs and let rest while you build the two-level fire in your grill.  Cook the ribs on high heat, rotating every 2-3 minutes until each side has the right amount of sear.  Move the ribs to the cool side, season with pepper and continue to cook at a low heat for another 40 minutes.  (Add cherrywood to the coals for a good smokey flavor at this stage.)

Remove from the grill, spoon on the hot BBQ sauce, and let rest, covered, for 10 minutes.

BBQ Sauce
2 tablespoons butter
1 large Onion, diced
1 large clove Garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon Salt
1/4 cup Ketchup
1/3 cup (packed) Dark Brown Sugar
8oz Beer
1 teaspoon Hot Sauce
2 tablespoons Cider Vinegar
1 Bay Leaf

In a small sauce pan over medium high heat, melt the butter and saute the onions and garlic until they become translucent. 
Sprinkle in the salt.  Add the rest of the ingredients, stirring constantly and bring to a simmer.  Reduce the heat to low and continue to let it bubble gently.  Keep stirring as it reduces.  As the liquid slowly evaporates out of it, the flavors concentrate and become much deeper. 

The sauce can be refrigerated in a sealed contained for up to a couple of months.

Corn Bread
1/4 cup plus 1 teaspoon of your best Fat (I'm using Lard or a combination of Bacon Drippings and Vegetable Shortening)
3/4 cup Yellow Corn Meal
1 1/4 cups All Purpose Flour
1/2 teaspoon Salt
3 teaspoons Baking Powder
3 tablespoons White Sugar
1/8 teaspoon Cayenne Pepper
1 Egg, beaten
1 cup Milk

In a heavy, oven-proof skillet (cast iron works great!) add the fat and put it in the oven.  Set the oven to 400 degrees. 

Whisk the dry ingredients together in a large bowl.  When the oven reaches 400 degrees, add the milk and egg to the dry ingredients and stir until combined.  Swirl the fat around in the skillet, coating the sides and bottom completely.  Dump the rest into the batter and stir to combine.  Pour the batter into the skillet, giving it a shake (to get the air bubbles out and settle in the pan) and put the skillet back in the oven for 20-25 minutes. 

Remove it from the oven but slice it and and let it rest in the pan.  Serve hot with butter and honey.

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Grills of Summer

Our caveman ancestors had nothing on us.  Oh sure, they created some pretty cool art, they invented tools at an alarming rate, they could defend themselves against oversized beasties, and they started astronomy and agriculture.  Heck, they practically invented "roughing it" while camping out under the stars or seeking refuge in tiny caves, but they didn't have marshmallows.  Nothing compares to finishing a hard day of relaxing in the wilds of Colorado like sitting around the campfire and eating fire-roasted marshmallows off of a stick.

And that got me thinking, "fire cook food good."  (Something about fire makes me speak like a cartoon caveman.  Please bear with me.)  As a continuation of Boys and Grills, I offer another handful of recipes that perfectly celebrate summer evenings, rituals as old as time, good friends and the opportunity to play with matches. 

Corn on the Cob
When buying ripe corn still in the husk, don't be afraid to peel the husks and silk back to look at the kernels.  You want big, fat, juicy kernels that aren't damaged by bugs or mold.  Resist the temptation to completely shuck the corn, though.

When you get the corn home, gently peel the green outer husks and the yellow-white inner husks all the way back (but not off!) exposing the corn silk.  Completely remove the corn silk.  Gently, but firmly recover the corn with the husks, completely covering ALL of the kernels.  Tie the ends of the husks with some butchers twine if they don't want to stay closed.  (If the outer husks are overly dry and brittle, soak the ears in a bucket of cool water for 5 minutes.)

When the coals of your fire (or grill) are hot and ready and no longer throwing flames, lay the ears up against the outside edges of the coals.  Cook for 5 minutes on a side--the outer husks should start to blacken after 3-4 min.  If they blacken too fast, scoot the corn back from the heat an inch or two.  Take your time with this one.  Don't rush.  When they are evenly cooked, remove and lay on a platter to cool for a couple of minutes before peeling.  Serve with whipped, herbed butter.

Potato Pockets
This has nearly the same dry heat/steaming cooking technique as the corn on the cob, but we use tinfoil instead of corn husks. 

1 large Russet Potato per person
1 large Onion
2 tablespoons fresh Rosemary
3 tablespoons Butter
Salt & Pepper (Lowry's Seasoned Salt is pretty darn good, too)

Wash potatoes, and slice into 1/4 inch rounds.  (You can use whatever potato you like, but I like the starchiness of the Russets.)  Slice the onions into 1/2 rings.

Lay out a long sheet of heavy duty aluminum foil (if you're British you just said that weird. Ha Ha!) and grease it down by rubbing a teaspoon of butter all over it.  (Start in the middle and work outward, stopping an inch or so from the edges.)  Layer the potatoes and onion and seasonings over the foil.  This should make about 2 layers.  Grease up another sheet of aluminum foil.  Add the remaining butter over the potatoes and onions. Cover with the foil and crimp the edges well shut.

I like to double wrap the foil, so I usually repeat the pocketing without greasing this layer.  This helps insulate against burning and tearing.

Throw the pocket into the hot coals.  Cook for 15 minutes, then flip over and cook for another 5. Serve hot!

Wisconsin Bratwurst
There is WAY too much misinformation and just plain bad cooking out there when it comes to Brats.  This is easy and delicious. 

[Johnsonville] Original Bratwurst (Johnsonville is the original American Bratwurst, but other companies make a good brat.  But so help me, God, if I hear that you're using the cheese filled, or spicy, or some other abomination of brats, I will personally come over and take away your Good Taste card.  Stop it.  Do it right or don't do it at all.)
2 tablespoons Butter for the pan, plus more for the buns
1 large Onion, sliced into 1/2 rings
1 can of Cheap Beer (break out the PBR!)
Kaiser Rolls (yes the round ones.  It's weird, but it's right--I'll explain later)
Sauerkraut (optional)

While the coals of the grill are heating up, soak the brats in an icewater bath. This tightens the skins.

Sautee the onions in the butter in a medium sized sauce pan until they are translucent.  Pour in the beer.  Bring to a simmer, but DO NOT boil.

When the coals are ashed over, lay the brats on the hottest part of the grill, 1/2 inch apart.  Cook for 5 min, or until they start to char.  WHEN you have a flare up--and you will, move the brat off the flames and close the lid.  DO NOT stab at your brats with a fork, but rather move them with your BBQ tongs. Rotate and flip them over.  Get them slightly blackened on all sides.  When they are well cooked, lay them in the beer and onion bath.  Keep them on the stove until the buns are ready.

Slice open and butter the inside of your kaiser rolls. Kaisers are best because they have a good crusty outside and round shape that is much larger than the brat it's going to hold. It can stand up to all the juicy goodness and sloppiness that's about to take place without spilling it's contents all over your lap and disintegrating into goo.  Place the rolls, butter-side down on the grill and toast until they get golden brown in the middle and darkened at the edges.  Assemble your brats with one--or if you're daring, two--brats in a bun, mustard and/or ketchup, sauerkraut, and onions.That's it.

Some common bratwurst mistakes: 
1) Soaking the brats in beer first.  This does nothing but waste a cheap beer.  It adds nothing to the flavor (it burns off) and can make an already smokey grill a flaming grill.  Not helpful.

2) Over garnish.  Brats are a joy to themselves: simple, harmonious.  Don't add things like mayo or pickle relish.  Have a side of potato salad and a pickle if you need these things.

3) Ignor the warm bath afterwards.  Brats and beer are meant for each other.  The warm beer, butter and onions infuses the sausage with extra deliciousness.  But if you must sin, this is one you may pass on.


Grill-smoked Crab Legs

These are awesome and simple. 

1 lb Snow Crab Legs, per person (here in Colorado, usually sold pre-cooked and then frozen)

Build a two-layer fire in your grill.  When the coals have ashed over, add a layer of cherrywood branches or chips on top of the coals.  Stack the crab legs on the cool part of the grill and close the lid.  The smoke will be pouring out of the grill so sit up wind.

Let these continue to cook until the smoke has nearly subsided, about 30-45 minutes.

Serve with melted butter and or lemon if you want to.  But we mostly ate them plain!

For dessert, go ahead: grill some marshmallows on a stick.