Wrapping Presents

My brother's birthday was early this month (Happy Birthday, My Brother!) and to help him with the celebration, we went to his house and made dinner.  (I like it when someone else gets to clean up the house.  Happy Birthday, My Brother!) I stuffed some pork rib chops with Parmesan cheese, dates, wild mushrooms and sage, and that got me thinking of our inclination of stuffing one food into another.  The whole concept is glorious: take a good food and then stuff it full of more good food to make one super food.  That is gluttony at its most crapulent!  (And yes, that's a word.  Look it up.) 

It's also delicious, and we who consume food nearly demand it.  At restaurants, Stuffed Crab or Stuffed Lobster grace the menu of almost every seafood establishment.  We like to dress up baked potatoes as Twice Baked Potatoes.  Chicken Kiev, Chicken Cordon Bleu, Roulades, and Baked Alaska all fulfill our need to enhance the dining experience by putting more food into the food we started with. 

Turducken.  Need I say more?

So how can you create a new dish by stuffing one food into another?  What do you need to look for?

First, of course, begin with flavors.  Find compliments.  Sweet and sour are a safe start for any savory dish, while acidic flavors are also good at cutting through heavy fats.  But find a way to surprise the audience.  Wrap bacon around a kumquat and use that combination to throw a culinary curve ball.  Now stuff it into a Cornish Game Hens for roasting!  Sweet, savory, rich, lightly acidic. . .  Mmmmm!  I'm making me hungry!

Next, think of the physics involved.  How can you get enough space open to get the goodness in?  A yin for the yang, if you will.  You also want to figure out how to keep it in place.  Remember that, when heated, some things expand and take up more volume.  Also, when heated to sufficient temperatures, proteins contract and tighten their bonds making them both less elastic, as well as smaller.  That juxtaposition nearly guarantees to squeeze out whatever stuffing you're attempting to stuff--unless preparations have been made.  Fowl is easy: a natural cavity and supporting bone structure help.  Whole fish is similarly easy.  Mushrooms, potatoes and zucchini all work well.  Steak, pork chops and chicken breasts will put up a fight.  Employ butcher's twine, skewers or a crust or wrapper to help (think: puff pastry).

For those who haven't tried it before, here's a couple of recipes to get you started in the right direction.

Stuffed Mushrooms
8 large Button Mushrooms, whole, blemish free and firm
1 small Shallot (or Onion) minced, about 1 1/2 tablespoons
2 strips Bacon, chopped fine
2 teaspoons Bread Crumbs
Salt and Pepper, to taste
Cheese (I prefer sharp cheddar or pungent asiago, although Parmesan works well, too) sliced into little squares to cover the mushrooms

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

In a medium skillet on medium high heat, saute the bacon until crispy.  While cooking the bacon, clean the mushrooms, gently remove and chop the stems, leaving the the rest of the mushroom whole.  When the bacon is about ready, add in the shallot and mushroom stems, salt and pepper.  Saute until the shallots and mushroom stems are soft.  Add the breadcrumbs, stir and remove from the heat. 

Scoop the filling from the pan into the mushroom tops and place them onto a greased cookie sheet.  Lay the slices of cheese over the top and pop them into the oven for 15 minutes or until the cheese is melted. 

Be careful when eating.  These bad boys can stay hot for a while!


Chicken Roulade
4 large, boneless Chicken Breasts
1/4 cup soft Cream Cheese
1 teaspoon dried Sage
1 teaspoon Thyme
2 teaspoons Parsley
1 teaspoon Lemon Zest
Salt and Pepper
Plastic Wrap
The secret to this dish is making it far enough in advance to let it chill firmly before cooking it.

Lay a chicken breast between 2 pieces of plastic wrap.  Using a flat meat tenderizer (I use a large rubber mallet) gently pound out the breast until it is evenly flattened to about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch.  Repeat for all four. 

Lay 2 flattened breasts on a fresh piece of plastic wrap, overlapping each other slightly.  Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then spread 1/2 of the cream cheese evenly over the chicken.  (DO NOT use a contaminated knife or spoon to scoop another helping of cream cheese out of a container.  That's how you get sick!  And my mom would have a fit!) 

In a small bowl, combine the sage, thyme, parsley and lemon zest.  Mix to combine.  Sprinkle 1/2 of the mixture onto the cream cheese. 

Using the plastic wrap to help you, roll the chicken into a tight pinwheel log.  Be sure to not roll the plastic into the pinwheel.  Wrap the log tightly in plastic and refridgerate for 8 hours.  Repeat with the other 2 breasts.

I prefer to cook the chicken on the stove top.  While still cold, remove from the plastic wrap and lay the roulades into a hot greased skillet.  Brown on each side, using tongs to turn it over.  Reduce the heat to low, cover and let cook 5-10 minutes more, or until the center reaches 160 degrees on an instant thermometer.  Cover and let stand for 10 minutes.

Thanksgiving!

I know many bloggers are out there, piously telling you what they are thankful for today.  That's not my style.  Today, you can be thankful for me.  It's ok.  Allow yourself to bask in my glow.  There's enough to go around. 

And as my gift to you I present a chronology of today's cooking.

We are at my parents' home, and after a big clam chowder meal last night, my body is prepared for the day ahead.

7:42   Wake up.  Stagger for a few minutes during morning preparation. 
7:48   Coffee.  Coffee brings clarity to life. 
7:50   Get the turkey out of the brine, rinse it thoroughly and dry it using paper towels.  Let it stand to continue to air dry. 
8:30   Making the cranberries. 
8:35   Cleaning up the stove where I wasn't paying attention and let the cranberries boil over.  My mom reminds me that nothing stains worse than cranberries. 
9:00   Do the dishes.  This will be repeated 7 or 8 times throughout the day.
10:30 Watch football.  My Fantasy Team is number 2 in the league, but I'm on a losing streak.  I have a rooting interest for several of the Thanksgiving Day games.
11:00 I eat a light lunch.  1 slice of bread, 1 piece of ham, a little cheese and 2 grapes. 
11:35 Start the broth for the stuffing.  Giblets, vegetable parts, apple peels, a little salt, sage, thyme and about 5 cups of water in a pot.
12:15 Assemble the rest of the stuffing. 
1:10   Dress and stuff the turkey. 
1:15   Turkey is in the oven.  It's going to cook for an hour breast-side down at 425 degrees.  Then another 45 minutes at 250 degrees. 
1:20   Help the family decorate the Christmas tree now that they've almost finished it. 
3:00   Flip the turkey breast side up, and admire its beauty.  Cook for another hour at 250 degrees.  Mom and my brother are starting to roll out crescent rolls and cooking the squash for the butternut squash soup. 
3:30   We start to set the table. 
4:00   I turn the heat in the oven back up to 425 degrees.  I take the bird's temperature.  It's about 135 degrees so far.  The race is on.
4:15   The dressing goes into the oven.  The soup is in the pot.  I start the bacon in a frying pan.
4:30   The turkey is out of the oven and is resting, covered.  The bacon is crumbled and the potatoes go into the pot to boil. 
4:45   The brussel sprouts are cleaned, split and in the frying pan. 
4:50   The potatoes get mashed.  All the final prep and meal comes together. 
5:00   We sit down to dinner. 
5:40   We all push away from the table, and the conversation slows to idle chatter. 
6:00   We start with dishes and threats of dessert.

What took days of preparation and hours of production, took only minutes to consume.  We relax and deliberate the condition of young people, these days. 

Please feel free to comment on your family traditions, your meals and recipes and any well-wishes you wish to send. 

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

For tomorrow's meals, we'll focus on leftovers.  Try:

Thanksgiving Sandwiches
2 slices of a sturdy Multigrain Bread
2 tablespoons Mayo
1 slice of Turkey Breast and a similar amount of Dark Meat
2 tablespoons Cranberry Sauce
1 large leaf of Lettuce
if you're really daring, 1 good spoonful of Stuffing

Assemble into a sandwich.  Eat it.  I like mine with a small dollop of yellow mustard and a few slices of swiss cheese.


Turkey Casserole
2 cups chopped Turkey
2 cups Stuffing
2 cups Green Beans or Mixed Vegetables
1 1/2 cups Turkey Gravy
Mashed Potatoes

In a large bowl, mix together the turkey, stuffing, vegetables and gravy.  Spread evenly into a casserole dish and top with a 1/2 inch layer of mashed potatoes.  Bake at 350 degrees for 35 minutes or until the gravy is bubbling and the potatoes are turning golden brown at the peaks. 


Cranberry Shortcakes
2 cups Cranberry Sauce
1 cup Sugar
6 Shortcakes (I like drop biscuits using half and half instead of milk and doubling the sugar)
1 scoop Whipped Cream

In a sauce pot over medium heat, add the cranberry sauce and the sugar.  Heat until the sugar melts and the sauce bubbles. 

Refrigerate until cool.

Heat the shortcakes, and split them open.  Spoon a generous helping of cranberries inside, and put the top of the cake back on.  Spoon another spoonful of berries on top, and add a scoop of whipped cream. 

The Thanksgiving Ritual

"My doctor asked, 'How soon into a meal do you typically stop eating and feel full?' I don't stop eating when I'm full. The meal's not over when I feel full. The meal is over when I hate myself. That's when I stop." -- Louis CK

Our family celebrates Thanksgiving like no other holiday.  Consider: my Mom's prodigious cooking, my love for the finest flavors, and my family's passion for . . . well,  . . .  gluttony.  So much so, that my brothers and I participate in a little (un)healthy competition around the holiday. 

As I may have alluded to in a previous post, we start gorging the week of Thanksgiving.  On Monday, I try to eat an extra meal.  Pre-Brunch, if you will.  Or maybe a Pre-Dinner.  Or even an Apres-Dessert.  Tuesday, I'll work on an extra meal and maybe extra helpings during each meal.  On Wednesday, I don't think I'm ever without food.  My brothers participate in a similar routine, the goal being stretching the stomach to its largest and most unhealthy capacity.  Then we fast the day of Thanksgiving so that we are nearly starving and feel completely hollow by the time we eat The Big Meal.  Like bears gorging themselves before hibernation, we maximize our caloric intake and then rest comfortably.  Americans created another ritual to aid in the rest and relaxation post-The Big Meal: The Detroit Lions Football Game. 

But my side of the family traditionally also celebrates Christmas during the Thanksgiving holiday.  The Christmas tree is put up, the ornaments come out, the Rat Pack serenades us with holiday carols.  Nog may be consumed.  Gifts will also be exchanged.  We started combining holidays years ago when marriages pulled us in different directions during November and December.  So we invented Christgiving.  Or Thanksmas.   Which is also cool, because we get our Christmas shopping done early.    

I'll report back after the holiday, and let you know how it turned out.  In the mean time, here's a few recipes I'm working on for The Big Meal. 

Cranberries with Raspberries and Cardamom
1 package whole, fresh Cranberries
2 cups Raspberries (fresh or frozen)
1 cup Sugar
Zest of 1 Orange
pinch of Salt
Water
1/4 cup Triple Sec
6 whole Green Cardamom pods

Rinse and pick out the bad fruit.  Add the fruit, sugar, zest and salt to a medium sauce pan with enough water to come up 1/2 inch below the top of the fruit.  Bring to a boil, stirring frequently and then reduce to a simmer.  Add the Triple Sec and cardamom pods and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the cranberries split open and the liquid is reduced to a thin syrup. 

Refrigerate over night. 

Stuffed Turkey
The art of cooking a stuffed turkey, that isn't too dry, but isn't undercooked, either, eludes most kitchen enthusiasts.  The secret is patience.  And a lot of heat at the right time.  And the brine!
The night before, soak the bird in a brine of your choosing.  Essentially, the brine is a high salt content dissolved in water.  There may be additional flavors.  I like adding lightly crushed allspice, a little sugar in the form of apple cider, or in this case a dark porter beer.  Three hours before cooking, remove the bird from the brine and rinse it thoroughly.  Using paper towels pat it dry, and then let it completely air-dry. (This will help the skin get extra crispy.) 


Preheat the oven to 500 degrees.  Dress the skin of the bird however you like--I usually just sprinkle a little salt and pepper over it, inside and out.  Heat the stuffing in the microwave until it's about 300 degrees.  Quickly stuff the bird's neck and body cavities, and then finish trussing the bird, lay it on a rack, breast-side down, and get it into the oven. 


Reduce the heat to 450 degrees and cook for an hour.  Baste the back in its juices, and then flip the bird, breast-side up.  Put the bird back into the oven, reduce the heat to 250 degrees and cook for 2 hours.  The breast and thigh meat should be about 135 degrees by this time.  Increase the oven temperature to 400 degrees and cook until the breast temperature is 160 degrees and the meat between the thigh and body is reading about 165- 170 degrees.  (The stuffing in the center of the bird will also be about 160 degrees.)  Remove from the oven and cover with tinfoil.  Let rest for 20 minutes before carving.


Autumn Stuffing
1/2 cup Walnut meat, lightly crushed
3/4 cup Onions, chopped
3/4 cup Celery, chopped (include the leaves!)
3/4 cup Apples, peeled and chopped (Granny Smiths or other baking apple)
2-4 cups Turkey Stock
1/2 cup melted Butter
2 tablespoons Kosher Salt
1 tablespoon ground Black Pepper
1 cup fresh forest mushrooms (I like Chanterelles or Morels)
4 cups Dried Bread, chopped into 1 inch cubes (we use the end pieces or stale artisan bread that we have been collecting for the past several months in the freezer)
cooked and chopped Giblets (optional, but I like them)


In a very large bowl, mix all the ingredients except for the stock.  Slowly add the stock until the bread starts to take on a little moisture, about 1 1/2 to 2 cups.  Seperate out about 1/2 the stuffing to put into the bird.  Follow the directions, above.

Add a bit more stock to the remaining stuffing until it gains the consistency you enjoy.  Move to a baking dish.  Bake in a 350 degree oven, covered for 30 minutes and 5 minutes uncovered.  Serve hot.

The Circle of Life, and All That

This was a meat-inspired week.  And I want to bring honor back to the word "butcher." 

Since returning from our rather unsuccessful hunting trip (*gasp!*  We'll have to buy our own red meat this year.  Read on for a plan), I've been running into meats of all sorts in all sorts of places. 

I've often said that if I wasn't a financial advisor, I would want to be a butcher.  For some, this is the most horrible thing in the world.  Akin to murder.  I challenge that line of thinking on an evolutionary basis.  Consider for the moment the human mouth.  Our tongue not only seeks out those things that provide a wide range of nutritional benefit, but our teeth and jaw alignment is perfectly suited to grind up a wide range of foods.  We have evidence of our earliest ancestors hunting and butchering animals at the dawn of the Stone Age, about 2.5 million years ago.  At that time, our teeth and jaws were much more like a chimpanzee's--sharper, pointed teeth up front, molars in the back in a longer narrower jaw hinged deeply in the skull and attached to massive jaw muscles.  Our palates have grown wider and shorter, and while some evolutionary theorists believe that forks, knives and cooking have made us weaker, I like to think of us as more refined.  We still have sharper, tearing teeth placed up front so that we can remove large bites, and broad molars for grinding and mashing.  Even our saliva is attuned to pre-digesting the essential proteins found in meat. 

But there is more than evolution at play in my admiration of butchery.  In much the same way Da Vinci explored the human figure examining musculature beneath the skin, a butcher knows his or her way around a carcass and creates an artform of separating different masses of muscle from bone.

The Denver Contemporary Art Museum hosted a a week-long art project called Art Meets Beast. Among other elements and events, Jimmy "The Butcher" Cross dissected a half a bison in roughly 2 hours. To put this feat of mastery into perspective, my Dad and I (who have a collective 80 years of experience in butchering our own meat) take 4 hours to butcher a deer, which is about half the mass of half-a-bison. Jimmy's knife (a 6 inch Boner) danced in and out and between bones like Gene Kelly weaving around light poles and umbrellas.  (By the way--there was SUPPOSED to be the music of Buffalo Springfield on the flugelhorn.  I heard no Buffalo Springfield and no flugelhorn.  Roger Green played "Home on the Range" on electric guitar as background music for the butchering workshop, however.)  Peter Marczyk of Marczyk Fine Foods (where Jimmy performs his craft) provided running commentary during the demonstration and expounded on the nature of bison, the butchering process and artform, the rise of American interest in knowing where our food comes from, and the lament that all too often, demand for particular cuts of meat (tenderloin, rib eyes, etc.) drive the price up for a whole animal and changes the marketability of beef, pork and bison in general.   I plan to buy a whole bison to split with my Dad in lieu of the elk we didn't get. 

This week, I also took the time to swing by and see my friends at Il Mondo Vecchio.  Walking through the doors on Loading Dock Friday, continues to bring a smile to my face.  The inviting fragrance of spices and curing meat promise a reward for the palate as well.  And certainly, I'm always excited to hear what's new and upcoming, and exchange recipe ideas.  Gennaro, dressed handsomely and incongruously in a dark suit and a tie, greeted us at the door and showed us around the facility.  He walked us through the curing process and then introduced the samples layed out for us to try.   Hot Coppa, Longanzia, Cured Duck, Beef Bresaola, Vino e Pepe Nero.  I picked up a half pound of Bresaola for my friend and a little of my favorite pork product, and a half pound of Duck Lardo.  On the way out Mark DiNittis was coming back into the shop. We discussed recipes, meats, and love of the craft.  He also let drop that he's going to be featured in a new book, Primal Cuts: Cooking with America's Best Butchers.  The dude is a rockstar. 

I took the Bresaola to Highland Tap and Burger and my buddy Eli, the executive chef there.  He creates a fusion of beer and meat products.  He'll sample the Bresaola in the cheese platter with homemade mostardo and a whole-grain ale mustard.  The nice guy gave me beer for the trouble.  And next week I'll introduce him personally to Il Mondo Vecchio.

If you're not already a committed vegetarian, I applaud you. You know the joys of well prepared meats and the majesty inherent in the noble beast.   If you are a vegetarian, I applaud you too.  You get a golf clap.  Way to stay committed to your principles.

Tonight for dinner:

Awesome Osso Buco
Instead of shanks, you can also use neck bones, tail bones or other less favorable cuts of meat.  Good Osso Buco is about the deep meaty flavor.
1/4 cup Vegetable Oil
2-4 Beef Shanks (about 3 pounds)
2-4 Lamb Shanks (about 1 pound)
Kosher Salt
1 medium Onion, chopped
2 medium Carrots, peeled and chopped
1 stalk Celery, chopped
1 tablespoon Tomato Paste
1 cup good Dry Red Wine
2 1/2 cups Vegetable Broth (or Chicken or Beef)
1 sprig Rosemary
3-4 sprigs Thyme
1 Bay Leaf
4 whole Cloves
12 whole Black Peppercorns

For a prettier presentation, use butcher's twine to tie the meat onto the bone.  Lightly and evenly sprinkle salt on the shanks.  Let stand on end to dry.

 In a large dutch oven (cast iron is great) heat the oil until smoking and lay in the shanks.  Brown them on all sides.  Reduce the heat to medium high and add the onion, celery and carrots.  Sprinkle on the 1 teaspoon of the salt.  Stir until the onion begins to turn translucent and then add the wine and tomato paste.  Stir gently until the paste dissolves.  Add the broth (I prefer vegetable because it's not as heavy and over powering).  Place the rosemary, thyme, cloves, black peppercorns, and bay leaf in a satchel of cheesecloth.  Add to the broth. 

Cover and let come to a boil.  Reduce the heat and let simmer for 1 1/2 hours.  Check now and then, making sure the liquid isn't boiling off too quickly.  add more broth if needed.  Using tongs, gently turn the shanks making sure that each part gets the liquid love it deserves. 

Remove the shanks to serving platter.  Discard the cheesecloth.  Ladle on the broth and vegetables.  Add fresh thyme and rosemary as a garnish.  Serve with crusty artisan bread. 

Tuna Fest, or How to Bring It All Together

It's like Iron Chef. 

My brother, my friend and I got together at my brother's house.  "What should we have to eat?" the conversation began.  "Whatever you want.  You figure out the main ingredient and I'll work with it," was my reply.  My brother brought home 2 1/2 pounds of beautiful Ahi Tuna. 

So how to assemble a dinner only just finding out what the theme ingredient is?  How do the Iron Chefs do it?

I wish I could be as eloquent as Michelangelo when he said, "Carving is easy.  You just go down to the skin and stop," but I'm not.   This is similar to bringing flavors together, however.  Begin with simplicity.  Use quality ingredients.  Add until you have the dish you want to eat.  Then stop cooking.  Easy, right?

For people who can draw, drawing a portrait is easy.  For people who can play a guitar and sing, serenading a beautiful woman is easy.  I haven't acquired those skills.  I have developed my sense of taste, however, and like Michelangelo, the resulting accomplishments look effortless.  (Isn't that awesome?  I AM comparing myself to Michelangelo.  I love being me.)  The good news: anyone with a functional nose and tastebuds can achieve the same results or better. 

As discussed before, the senses of smell and taste inform us of what we like and what tastes good together.  Sweet and spicy, bitter and sweet, sweet and sour, salty and sweet, spicy and sour all work together as compliments.  However, bitter and sour or salty and spicy make a very untasty dish.  Even sweet by itself becomes overpowering. 

So how do you develop your senses and use that in cooking?  First, experience it.  Taste what you are tasting.  Open your mouth slightly and breathe air over it, inhaling through your nose and mouth.  What does it really taste like?  What makes a pear, taste and smell like a pear?  Why isn't it an apple?  The subtle differences make all the difference.

So back to Tuna Night.  We wanted multiple courses. My brother launched the evening off with cocktails and a magnificent Tuna Poke (pronounced PO-kee).  I served a papaya and jalapeno salsa with tortilla chips.  I followed with a simple rice and tuna soup.  Then the main course: a sesame-encrusted and seared tuna on a bed of mixed greens and chimchurri.  For dessert, I made a non-tuna panna cotta with a nice aged port poured over the top. 

Laughter, stories of friends and times since past, good food, good drink.  These are the ingredients of a great evening; And better than any Iron Chef can produce. 

Tuna Poke
1 lb fresh Ahi Tuna
1/2 small Onion (Maui), minced
2 green Scallions, diced
1/2 teaspoon Fresh Ginger, grated
2 cloves Garlic, minced
1/4 cup Soy Sauce
1/2 teaspoon Sesame Oil
1/2 teaspoon Crushed Red Pepper Flakes
1/2 teaspoon Chinese Chili Sauce
1/2 teaspoon Kosher Salt

Cut Ahi into at least 1/2" cubes - set aside & refrigerate.  Combine all other ingredients in a large glass bowl & refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

When ready to serve toss Ahi and other ingredients together.


Hot and Sour Tuna Soup
2 tablespoons Canola Oil
1 1/2 tablespoons Thai Red Curry Paste (sold by the jar at most supermarkets)
3 cups Vegetable Stock (or 2 cups Vegetable and 1 cup Fish or Chicken Stock)
1 cup Boiling Water (or as needed)
3 tablespoons Soy Sauce
1/4 cup Rice Wine Vinegar
2 tablespoons White Vinegar
1 cup Long Grain White Rice (I used Jasmine, because that's what I had on hand)
1/2 pound Ahi Tuna, cut into 1" or smaller cubes (it's ok to use the trimmings from the other tuna dishes you're making)
1 tablespoon Fish Sauce
Scallion Greens, thinly sliced, for garnish

In a large pot (I used a Chinese clay soup pot, just because it looks so cool!) heat the oil over medium high heat and add the curry paste.  Mash, stir and whisk the paste until loose, runny and dissolving.  Add the stock and continue to whisk until completely dissolved.  Add the soy sauce and vinegars.  Let come to a low boil and add the rice.  Cover and reduce the heat and let simmer on a low setting for about 20-30 minutes. 

When the rice has plumped up, stir in the fish and fish stock.  Add more boiling water if the rice has taken over the broth.  Cover and remove from the heat.  Let stand for at least 10 minutes.  Serve hot, garnishing each bowl with generous pinch of scallions.


Sesame Encrusted Tuna
1 tablespoon Canola Oil
1 pound Ahi Tuna
1/4 cup White Sesame Seeds
2 tablespoon Whole Mustard Seeds
1 tablespoon Black Peppercorns, crushed
1/2 teaspoon Salt


On a plate, combine the sesame seeds, mustard seeds, peppercorns and salt.  Mix and spread out evenly.  Lay the tuna into the seed mixture and press gently, coating one side of the tuna completely.  Flip the tuna over and repeat. 


Heat the 1/2 the oil in a large non-stick skillet until it begins to smoke.  Add the tuna.  Cook for 30-45 seconds.  Using tongs, lift the tuna out of the skillet, add the remaining oil, flip the tuna to cooked side up and sear the other side, about 30-45 seconds.


Remove to a cutting board and slice into 1/2 inch slices.  The tuna should be just starting to grey around the edges and raw in the middle.  Serve on a bed of fresh greens with a dollop of Chimchurri and a small cup of soy sauce on the side. 


Chimchurri
1 cup, packed, Cilantro Leaves
3 large cloves Garlic, chopped
1/2 medium Red Onion
1 Jalapeno, seeds removed, minced
1 tablespoon Crushed Red Pepper Flakes
1/2 teaspoon Salt
1/2 cup Olive Oil
1/4 cup Red Wine Vinegar

In the bowl of a food processor, add the cilantro, garlic onion and jalapeno, red pepper flakes and salt.  Pulse several times and then scrape down the sides.  Repeat.  Turn it on and slowly add the vinegar and oil, until it comes together as a paste or slurry. 

Scrape into a serving dish, cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 2 or 3 days before. 

Stovetop Cobbler

Stovetop "Cobbler"
3 large tart Apples, peeled, cored and sliced
1/2 tablespoon each of both Butter and Olive Oil
1/3 cup Brown Sugar
1/4 teaspoon Nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon Cinnamon
pinch of Salt
3 tablespoons Brandy
1/2 cup Rolled Oats
1 tablespoon Butter
your favorite Nuts, chopped (honey roasted almonds are good)


Melt the butter in a medium frying pan. Add the oil and let get hot. Add the apples, stir and reduce the heat to medium/medium low. Add the sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon and salt. Stir occasionally. The sugars will get syrupy.


In another pan, heat the butter and oil on high. Add the oats and nuts. Reduce the heat to medium and saute until the oats are toasted and aromatic.


Add the brandy to the apples. Ignite with a match and burn off some of the alcohol. Stir in the oats, and reduce heat to low. Stir and let cook for 5 minutes or so. Serve hot!

Gluttony, The Most Filling of the 7 Deadly Sins

I've spoken before of the prodigious and bounteous nature of my Mom's kitchen.  I kid you not, this is an excerpt from a recent email sent prior to a recent visit to my parents home:

"M, is there something I can do to start roasting tomatoes? If you tell me what to get started, I'd be happy to do it. I bought plenty of garlic today and fresh mushrooms if you need any of that. Also bought fettucine and we have spaghetti here so we're in good shape with pasta. I'll make some French bread tomorrow and I have plenty of stuff for salad, either cuke salad or lettuce salad. I think I'll make meatballs, too, since I just picked up some nice hamburger. Will probably also cook up some shrimp, and as I told you, there's chicken breasts, so just let me know what you all want.

"Saturday's dinner will be lamb, new potatoes, asparagus, butternut squash, tomato tarte, dilly casserole bread, and apple pie and peach pie for dessert with vanilla ice cream and homemade peach ice cream. I cooked a beef roast and shredded the meat and am making green chili right now in the slow cooker so we can have burritos one morning for breakfast. We'll figure out something else for the other breakfast."

Keep in mind, this is a partial menu for 5 people for two days. 

The downside of such a weekend is not only in the waistline; it's also the psychological impact of such an event, or what I like to call the 5 Stages of Gluttony. 

1. Denial.  You'll hear things around the dinner table like, "This all looks so delicious!  I'll have a little of everything.  and maybe a an extra helping of that."  Or, "I'll only take one scoop of that on this pass.  I can take a second helping next time."  This is the most dangerous stage, because it sets up the strategy of your meal.  A sense of eager anticipation pervades the room. 
2. Anger.  Ok,  not so much "anger" in the beginning.  Maybe more like concentration.  As the plates fill up, the conversation around the table grows softer.  Oh yes, jokes are still made, and laughter rings out on occasion, but we slowly grow quieter and quieter.
3. Bargaining.  "Just one more bite."  How often have we uttered these desperate words, and how often have we moved right on to the next stage?
4. Depression.  A pointed silence hangs over the room.  No one looks up, but rather we all stare dejectedly at our plates.  Mom cheerfully rings out, "Who wants more?"
5. Acceptance.  The battle is lost.  The remains of the meal will now be relegated to leftovers.  We start doing dishes and anticipate dessert.

The 5 Stages exemplifies the experience, but it's not quite as hopeless as it seems.  As the dinner progresses, the camaraderie of the participants grows.  The food is delicious.  There will be legends told of our accomplishments. 

Tonight for dinner?  How about a modest salad?  And maybe some steak.  And a baked potato.  And pie . . .

Or maybe:

Mediterranean Baked Chicken Breasts
4 large skinless, boneless Chicken Breasts
1/2 cup Greek Yogurt
1 tablespoon dried Tarragon Leaves
1 tablespoon Butter
1 tablespoon Olive Oil
1/2 medium Onion, minced
Put the chicken breasts, yogurt and tarragon into a plastic bag and let it marinade for a few hours (up to the night before).

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  In an oven-proof Dutch Oven (I'm using a cast iron Dutch Oven) on the stove top, melt the butter in the oil on medium high heat.  Take the breasts out of the marinade and shake the excess marinade off (a little coating is good) and lay the breasts in the hot oil.  Cook for 2-3 minutes each side, dusting with turmeric and sprinkling with salt.  Add the lemon juice and onions.  Cook until the onions start to turn translucent.  Add the yogurt and tarragon marinade to the pot.  Cover with a heavy lid.

Put into the oven and cook for 20 minutes.  Remove from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes, covered.  I served with Orzo and fresh vegetables.
3/4 teaspoon Turmeric Powder
1/3 teaspoon Cinnamon Powder
1/2 teaspoon Salt
Juice of 1/2 Lemon

The Weekend Breakfast

Like all good college bachelors, there was once a very pragmatic reason for my learning to cook a fine breakfast.  Now that I am married, however, I still enjoy the weekend tradition of a leisurely breakfast. 

They say it's the most important meal of the day, but most of us (including me) skip it most often.  "Too busy," "I'm not hungry, yet," "I can wait until lunch."  These are some of my very good reasons for not eating breakfast during the week.  But on weekends, breakfasts are a celebration.

This may be a two-part blog, but today I want to talk about the joys of a good breakfast on the weekend.  (I'll be soliciting ideas for weekday breakfasts later--please help!)

A few things that make breakfast my favorite creative meal is the versatility of eggs and bread.  The interplay of sweet and savory.  And really good coffee.

Coffee first: We use a French Press, so the weekend morning ritual begins by putting a pot of water on to boil.  While the water comes to a boil, we fill the press pot with hot water to take the chill off.  We grind our own beans--a coarse grind allowing for the mesh in the press.  As the water comes to a boil, we take it off the heat; empty the press and then add the coffee and the near-boiling water.  We let it steep for 4 minutes and while it does, we heat the cups.  When the coffee finally lands in the cup, the little droplets of the volatile oils release their rich aroma.  This is a perfect start of the day--worthy of a Norman Rockwell painting and a place on future calendars which will reminisce of those halcyon days of yester-year.

When you have a set-up like this, almost any breakfast would be delicious.  But truly great breakfasts demand more.

My favorite breakfast restaurant of all time is Cafe Pasqual's in Santa Fe, New Mexico.  (They do great lunches and dinners, too.)  It's not uncommon to wait 45 minutes to more than an hour for a seat, but they also have a community table where you can meet others and maybe sit sooner.  The waitstaff are informal, busy, and moving through so quickly they could be mistaken as rude.  They aren't.  They are the ninja rockstars of the food service industry.  And they will be your best friends, if you are willing to work with them.  The food is the main attraction, however.  From the unconventional house-made granola, to the very peculiar Smoked Trout Hash, all are delicious and presented perfectly and complete as they are.  If you enjoy a sweet breakfast, try the Tamal Dulce with a cup of Mexican hot chocolate.  If you desire a more savory dish, try the Eggs Barbacoa with Chile d'Arbol.

I love being inspired by great foods from great restaurants.  "Name That Flavor" is my favorite restaurant game, and when I come home it's "What Was That Flavor?"  I try to recreate--and when possible, even improve upon--the meals I've had.  Here's a few of my favorites:

Breakfast Rice Pilaf
1/2 cup Long Grain White Rice
1/2 cup Wild Rice
2 tablespoons White Sesame Seeds
2 tablespoons Butter
1/2 teaspoon Salt
2 cups Water
1/2 teaspoon Cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon Nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground Cloves
1/2 teaspoon Red Chili Powder
1/4 teaspoon ground Allspice
1/2 cup of Dried Fruit (Golden Raisins, Plums, chopped Apricots, etc)
1/4 cup Honey
1/2 teaspoon Vanilla Extract


Melt the butter in a medium sized pot over medium-high heat.  Add rices and sesame seed and stir constantly until the sesame seed starts to smell toasted.  Add the water and salt and increase the heat to high and quickly stir in the spices, fruit and honey.  Cover, let come to a boil and then reduce the heat to simmer.  Let simmer for 30 minutes, covered. 


Remove from the heat, let stand for 5 minutes (still covered).  Add the vanilla and fluff the rice with a fork.  Serve hot with milk and a sprinkle of brown sugar or maple syrup. 


Bombay Potatoes
this is a recipe from my friend Lisa Grant
"Omg, it's heaven. Peel and rough chop a mixing bowl full of potatoes. Put 'em in a hot skillet with a bit of oil. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally until soft. While that's cooking, get your spices ready. Turmeric, coriander, cumin, paprika, crushed red pepper, garam masala, fresh grated ginger, salt and pepper. I tend to be kinda generous with my spices and I like a slow after-burn, but use however much works for you. When the potatoes are soft, throw in the spices and a good knob of butter. Sizzle, wiggle and dance in the kitchen. When it smells so good that you just about can't take it any more, throw in 1/4 cup of water and mix it all around really well. Crispy, spicy, smushy, and lovely. Mmmm..."

Huevos Motuleños (as inspired by Cafe Pasqual's)
ingredients are per person
2 Corn Tortillas
1/2 cup Black Beans
2 teaspoons Mild Red Chili Powder
1 Red Banana
2 tablespoons Green Peas
1/4 cup crumbled Queso Fresco (or a mild feta cheese)
2 Eggs, cooked to your perfection (I prefer a light poach)
Red or Green Chili Sauce, to taste

Cook the black beans with the chili powder, for flavor.  (This is a fine time to use canned black beans.)  While they are cooking, warm the tortillas and lay them on a plate.  Slice the banana in half, length-wise and heat in a HOT skillet.  Red bananas are good to use  because they are a little more starchy than traditional yellow (Cavendish), but sweeter than plantains. 

Cook the eggs.

Assemble, from bottom to the top:  Tortillas on the plate, black beans, banana, peas, queso fresco, eggs and chili sauce. 

German Apple Pancake
3 large Granny Smith Apples, peeled, cored and sliced
2 tablespoons Butter
1/4 cup Brown Sugar, packed
1/2 teaspoon ground Cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon grated Nutmeg
3 Eggs, beaten
3/4 cup Milk or Half and Half
1/2 cup Flour
1/2 teaspoon Salt
1 tablespoon Sugar
1 teaspoon Vanilla Extract

Heat the oven to 500 degrees.

In an oven proof skillet (but starting on the stove top) melt the butter on medium-high heat.  Saute the apples until they are evenly coated in butter.  Reduce the heat to medium and stir in the brown sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg.  Continue to stir occasionally. 

In a large mixing bowl, beat the remaining ingredients into a batter. 

When the oven hits 500 degrees, pour the batter over the apples, starting around the edges and moving into the middle.  Immediately place the skillet into the oven and reduce the heat to 425 degrees.  Bake for 16-17 minutes.  The batter will puff up and turn a yellow-golden-brown. 

Using a spatula, loosen the pancake as best you can from the sides and bottom of the pan.  Being careful not to burn yourself, place a plate, upside down, on top of the skillet and flip.  (It's like turning out a pineapple upside down cake.)

Let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before slicing.  Serve with warm maple syrup and a dusting of powdered sugar. 

Now, if you've got good breakfast ideas for "on the go" folks like myself, please give me your best!

The DLT

Too many people mentioned that I didn't include a recipe last time in the last post.  So here's a simple one.

The DLT

6 slices Cured Duck Breast, pan fried until it's lightly crispy 
2 slices of your favorite Bread, toasted and buttered (optional, but I prefer it)
1 leaf Bib Lettuce
3 slices Tomato
1 tablespoon Plum Mayo (which is 2 tablespoons Mayonnaise and 1 teaspoon Asian Plum Sauce, whipped together with a fork)
Salt and Pepper to taste

Make a BLT, but use the duck. 

Is That A Salume In Your Pocket, Or Are You Just Happy To Be Here?

They say the best things in life are free.  Walking hand-in-hand through a park with the one you love.  Reading a book.  (I finished the Twilight series upon the request of someone who will remain nameless.  And yes, she was a woman.  And yes, I sort of enjoyed them.)  And another of my favorites: new discoveries.

Think back to Bacon-Fest 2010 and in our (my) educational segment, we (I) discussed (told you about) the "cure" that makes bacon, bacon.  But curing meats takes time and space that most people do not have in abundance.  If only there were a place that the average Joe and Jane could go to acquire a broad spectrum of cured meats.  My friends, I have discovered the Shangrila of cured meats, right here in Denver!  Il Mondo Vecchio (essentially, "The Old World," the name indicates their sense of commitment to their craft) resides in an industrial zone of on the outskirts of Denver's downtown.  Located behind a blue collar diner and blue collar topless bar (think blue collar industrial strippers and you'll know what I mean) the humble surroundings belie the grandeur of the product inside. 

First, a little examination of salumi, and charcuterie.  Charcuterie is the general term for any kind of cured meat (although most reference pork), curing through any combination of salt, spices, processing, heating and drying.  Bacon, salami, pâté and sausage are all examples.  Salumi is the Italian representation of charcuterie.

Meats were first cured and dried to eliminate the possibility of bacteria and other beasties from eating, breeding and ultimately spoiling the food.  Without as much moisture, and with the addition of spices and salt, some cured meats can be kept near room temperature for many years.  Now we have refrigeration, so we don't need to cure meats the way we once did.  We still love the flavors and textures, however, so salame, coppa, prosciutto all remain on our menus.  Curiously, although we want to stop meat from spoiling, many of the best meats are actually fermented before they are cured.  Hhmmm.  Interesting. 

Jason Molinari has a good blog on curing meats.  Several others discuss the various types and flavors.  Start your education anywhere, but start your exploration in your mouth.  Take advantage of Mondo's Loading Dock Fridays.  Every Friday, from 2:30(-ish) to 6:30(-ish) they provide tastings and tours.  And every other Friday, my new buddy Joe Beggs can be found serving up smoked meats in slider form.  If you're in the neighborhood, stop by.  If you're not (and you're probably not), make a special trip--you'll be happy you did!

This morning's Breakfast Rustica includes Sweet Coppa, Prosciutto, Cured Duck ("raw," as well as cooked like bacon), fresh sliced peaches and sourdough toast with our friend's Raspberry Jam.  (Thanks Stephanie!!)

Prunus Persica Doesn't Begin to Describe It!

"Took a little nap where the roots all twist,
squished a rotten peach in my fist,
and dreamed about you, woman."
--from Peaches by Presidents of the United States

We visited my folks, with the express intent of picking up peaches.  Their slightly-more-than-an-acre property is exquisitely manicured and possesses numerous fruit trees, blackberry and raspberry bushes, and vegetable and flower gardens.  Their trees are incredibly plentiful.  The gardens are bountiful.  The bushes are, well, bushy.  We brought home a bushel and a half of peaches, 9 quarts of canned peaches, and processed 7 pints of pineapple and peach jam.  We brought home a sack of cucumbers and summer squash.  We also brought home a gallon of blackberries my dad and I picked that morning.

Peaches are one of my favorite foods--the flesh and juice seems the perfect accompaniment to a hot summer day.  Eating a ripe peach from the tree refreshes and cools the body without being cloyingly sweet.  Sliced peaches partner with ice cream, on cereal or in rum with a mint garnish.  I am perfectly happy eating the skin having only rinsed it under a little water, but most people prefer to peel it entirely, removing all the fuzz.  If you are in the latter camp, the good news is that you can peel a ripe peach with your fingers.  Or if you have a bunch to peel, drop them in boiling water for 1 minute and then immerse them in an ice water bath.  That will loosen the skins so much that you then gently rub the skins right off.  Easy as can be!

For those of you who like learning things, the name Prunus persica implies that peaches originated in Persia (now Iran).  They didn't, but rather were carried there over the Silk Road from China, where peaches have been seen as symbols of longevity. 

Another true story: My wife an I had a small white flesh peach tree at our house in Santa Fe.  As it was just starting to produce fruit, we each promised the other that we wouldn't have a peach without sharing it with the other person.  After the fruit season ended we each confessed that peaches were eaten without sharing.  And without guilt. 

So as the summer winds down into fall, enjoy the fruits of the season. 

A few recipes to use up a bushel and a half of peaches:

Peach and Cucumber Salad
3 large ripe  Peaches, peeled and sliced into wedges
2 large Cucumbers, peeled and sliced into rounds
1/2 large white Onion, chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh Mint
1/2 teaspoon Salt
1/4 teaspoon Ground Black Pepper

In a large bowl, combine all ingredients and stir to combine the flavors. Add enough (about 1/4 - 1/3 cup) of the Maple Dressing (the following recipe), stir again and let rest for at least an hour before serving, to allow the flavors to blend.

Maple Dressing
1/2 cup Olive Oil (use the good stuff here)
1 clove Garlic, pressed
1 clove Shallots
1/4 cup Maple Syrup
1/4 cup Honey
2 teaspoons Dijon Mustard
2 tablespoons Apple Cider Vinegar

Mix all ingredients in a blender.  This dressing is also good on any greens salad.


Peach Chutney
2 tablespoons Olive Oil
1 star Anise
3 large ripe Peaches, peeled and sliced into wedges (overly ripe peaches work especially well)
1 medium Onion, chopped
2 cloves Garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon Salt
1/2 teaspoon Pepper Corns
1/2 teaspoon Whole Cloves
1/4 teaspoon Coriander Seed
1 tablespoon Hot (New Mexico) Chili Powder
3 tablespoons Vinegar (white or cider)
1 California Bay Leaf

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil on medium high and add the star anise.  Stir the star around the skillet for 2 minutes.  Discard the star and add the peaches, onion and garlic.  Sprinkle with salt and saute until the onions start to turn translucent.  Grind the pepper corns, cloves and coriander; stir in to the peaches.  Add the chili powder and vinegar; stir again.  Reduce the temperature to simmer and add the bay leaf. 

Add to chicken, pork or serve with toast points or crackers. 


Pineapple and Peach Jam
(Adapted from: Farm Journal Freezing & Canning Cook Book, ed. by Nell B Nichols, Doubleday & Company Inc, 1973)

12 large ripe Peaches
1 cup crushed Pineapple
the Juice and Zest of 1 large Orange
9 cups Sugar

Peel the peaches, and coarsely chop. Process 2 peaches at a time in a food processor for 5-7 1 second pulses.  (Pieces should be no larger than 1/4 - 1/2 inch.)

Combine all ingredients in a very large pan and cook at medium high heat for 30 minutes or until the jam is at the right consistency.  (It was nearly an hour for us because of the amount of juice in the peaches and our altitude.)

Ladle the jam into 1/2 pint jars (or if you are like us and don't have enough 1/2 pint, use pint jars) leaving 1/4 inch space at the top.  Clean the tops of the jars with a hot damp paper towel.  Seal with canning lids and tighten the rings to finger tight.  Place into the boiling water in a caner and process for 10 minutes. 

Remove the jars from the caner and place on a towel on a flat surface.  Let them cool and rest for 24 hours before jostling them around a lot (like driving with them in the backseat of my car from Canyon City to Denver.  Damn.)

Data Mining, or The Defense of Facebook and The Joys of Coupons

Before you get into this blog, go to a new window and Google "Data Mining."  Go ahead.  I'll be here when you get back. 

So you noticed that there are a couple of companies that have bought space at the top to tell other companies that there is real gold in your virtual identities.  Next, you probably noticed that there was some basic info on what data mining is and how it works.  Then there are literally millions of links for and against it, and companies who do it.  At one extreme, Madison Avenue is clamoring to know who you are, what you do, where you shop, why you do what you're doing,  and most importantly, are you reliable enough to do it again?  At the other extreme are the conspiracy theorists who believe that any information you give exposes you to corporate and government moles who burrow deep into your psyche and control your mind.  My conclusion?  Both are right and maybe it's not all bad.

Think of your Facebook profile and what information it offers.  Mine says what company I work for, where I went to school, many of my interests, political and religious views, and what movies and television shows I watch.  For example, I watch Family Guy.  This provides a wealth of info for advertisers which will then allow them to advertise to me.  Besides having the sense of humor of a 12 year old boy, I am most likely male, age 20-45, college educated, earn between $50k and $125k, own my home, have a mortgage and am also likely to play MMORPGs (think: World of Warcraft).  This data is crosschecked through other surveys that people like me may have taken and then verified through other websites I visit. Commercials that appear on Family Guy (on television) use the info they've collected to customize their message to me.  Too bad for them, I also have TiVo.  But the ads on the sidebar of Facebook also use the info collected.  So I have offers recommending products like what I would see if I watched the TV commercials.  Facebook will also advertise to me what my friends have indicated that they like, too.  If I like you and you like that company X's product, I may like it, too.

"But this is a food blog," you say.  "You are rambling." 

I'll bring it on home now.  Have you ever been offered a customer loyalty card at your local supermarket?  If you swipe your card, you get a discount off of many products.  But guess what else they're doing: Yep.  Data mining.  They know how you shop and what you're likely going to buy in the future.  King Soopers will print out coupons tailored to my shopping interests.  As a matter of fact, my savvy and fiscally responsible wife saved 20% off of our last grocery bill ($35 from $175).  Suddenly, eating well isn't nearly so expensive!  The downside, however, is they also know when we're most like to go to the store.  If people like us most often go shopping once a week on a Saturday, and people like us regularly buy meat, cheese, eggs, milk, veggies and fruit, and toilet paper, we may have coupons for some of these things but an additional advertised sale may only run Monday through Friday.  (Click here for more information on how you could be sorted.)

So I am one of the willing masses who recognizes the trade offs between giving advertisers what they want in exchange for giving me what I want.  But if you fall into another camp of cocooning and insulation, please be aware: your smart phone, your credit and debit cards, your shopping habits, your GPS, your internet, Facebook, Foursquare, Twitter and LinkedIn accounts, and even your address and phone number already give away many of your secrets.  There is little refuge for the wary.  Having said that, and having confessed my willingness to be exploited, I leave you with this caution: "Understand and be aware."  And, "When in doubt, follow the money trail."

Our coupon-saved cuisine tonight:

BBQ Pork Ribs
3 lbs rack of Pork Ribs (or Pork Shoulder Ribs, sliced by the butcher)
Salt and Pepper, to taste
BBQ Sauce (see the recipe, below)

Sprinkle salt on the ribs and let rest while you build the two-level fire in your grill.  Cook the ribs on high heat, rotating every 2-3 minutes until each side has the right amount of sear.  Move the ribs to the cool side, season with pepper and continue to cook at a low heat for another 40 minutes.  (Add cherrywood to the coals for a good smokey flavor at this stage.)

Remove from the grill, spoon on the hot BBQ sauce, and let rest, covered, for 10 minutes.

BBQ Sauce
2 tablespoons butter
1 large Onion, diced
1 large clove Garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon Salt
1/4 cup Ketchup
1/3 cup (packed) Dark Brown Sugar
8oz Beer
1 teaspoon Hot Sauce
2 tablespoons Cider Vinegar
1 Bay Leaf

In a small sauce pan over medium high heat, melt the butter and saute the onions and garlic until they become translucent. 
Sprinkle in the salt.  Add the rest of the ingredients, stirring constantly and bring to a simmer.  Reduce the heat to low and continue to let it bubble gently.  Keep stirring as it reduces.  As the liquid slowly evaporates out of it, the flavors concentrate and become much deeper. 

The sauce can be refrigerated in a sealed contained for up to a couple of months.

Corn Bread
1/4 cup plus 1 teaspoon of your best Fat (I'm using Lard or a combination of Bacon Drippings and Vegetable Shortening)
3/4 cup Yellow Corn Meal
1 1/4 cups All Purpose Flour
1/2 teaspoon Salt
3 teaspoons Baking Powder
3 tablespoons White Sugar
1/8 teaspoon Cayenne Pepper
1 Egg, beaten
1 cup Milk

In a heavy, oven-proof skillet (cast iron works great!) add the fat and put it in the oven.  Set the oven to 400 degrees. 

Whisk the dry ingredients together in a large bowl.  When the oven reaches 400 degrees, add the milk and egg to the dry ingredients and stir until combined.  Swirl the fat around in the skillet, coating the sides and bottom completely.  Dump the rest into the batter and stir to combine.  Pour the batter into the skillet, giving it a shake (to get the air bubbles out and settle in the pan) and put the skillet back in the oven for 20-25 minutes. 

Remove it from the oven but slice it and and let it rest in the pan.  Serve hot with butter and honey.

Grills of Summer

Our caveman ancestors had nothing on us.  Oh sure, they created some pretty cool art, they invented tools at an alarming rate, they could defend themselves against oversized beasties, and they started astronomy and agriculture.  Heck, they practically invented "roughing it" while camping out under the stars or seeking refuge in tiny caves, but they didn't have marshmallows.  Nothing compares to finishing a hard day of relaxing in the wilds of Colorado like sitting around the campfire and eating fire-roasted marshmallows off of a stick.

And that got me thinking, "fire cook food good."  (Something about fire makes me speak like a cartoon caveman.  Please bear with me.)  As a continuation of Boys and Grills, I offer another handful of recipes that perfectly celebrate summer evenings, rituals as old as time, good friends and the opportunity to play with matches. 

Corn on the Cob
When buying ripe corn still in the husk, don't be afraid to peel the husks and silk back to look at the kernels.  You want big, fat, juicy kernels that aren't damaged by bugs or mold.  Resist the temptation to completely shuck the corn, though.

When you get the corn home, gently peel the green outer husks and the yellow-white inner husks all the way back (but not off!) exposing the corn silk.  Completely remove the corn silk.  Gently, but firmly recover the corn with the husks, completely covering ALL of the kernels.  Tie the ends of the husks with some butchers twine if they don't want to stay closed.  (If the outer husks are overly dry and brittle, soak the ears in a bucket of cool water for 5 minutes.)

When the coals of your fire (or grill) are hot and ready and no longer throwing flames, lay the ears up against the outside edges of the coals.  Cook for 5 minutes on a side--the outer husks should start to blacken after 3-4 min.  If they blacken too fast, scoot the corn back from the heat an inch or two.  Take your time with this one.  Don't rush.  When they are evenly cooked, remove and lay on a platter to cool for a couple of minutes before peeling.  Serve with whipped, herbed butter.

Potato Pockets
This has nearly the same dry heat/steaming cooking technique as the corn on the cob, but we use tinfoil instead of corn husks. 

1 large Russet Potato per person
1 large Onion
2 tablespoons fresh Rosemary
3 tablespoons Butter
Salt & Pepper (Lowry's Seasoned Salt is pretty darn good, too)

Wash potatoes, and slice into 1/4 inch rounds.  (You can use whatever potato you like, but I like the starchiness of the Russets.)  Slice the onions into 1/2 rings.

Lay out a long sheet of heavy duty aluminum foil (if you're British you just said that weird. Ha Ha!) and grease it down by rubbing a teaspoon of butter all over it.  (Start in the middle and work outward, stopping an inch or so from the edges.)  Layer the potatoes and onion and seasonings over the foil.  This should make about 2 layers.  Grease up another sheet of aluminum foil.  Add the remaining butter over the potatoes and onions. Cover with the foil and crimp the edges well shut.

I like to double wrap the foil, so I usually repeat the pocketing without greasing this layer.  This helps insulate against burning and tearing.

Throw the pocket into the hot coals.  Cook for 15 minutes, then flip over and cook for another 5. Serve hot!

Wisconsin Bratwurst
There is WAY too much misinformation and just plain bad cooking out there when it comes to Brats.  This is easy and delicious. 

[Johnsonville] Original Bratwurst (Johnsonville is the original American Bratwurst, but other companies make a good brat.  But so help me, God, if I hear that you're using the cheese filled, or spicy, or some other abomination of brats, I will personally come over and take away your Good Taste card.  Stop it.  Do it right or don't do it at all.)
2 tablespoons Butter for the pan, plus more for the buns
1 large Onion, sliced into 1/2 rings
1 can of Cheap Beer (break out the PBR!)
Kaiser Rolls (yes the round ones.  It's weird, but it's right--I'll explain later)
Sauerkraut (optional)

While the coals of the grill are heating up, soak the brats in an icewater bath. This tightens the skins.

Sautee the onions in the butter in a medium sized sauce pan until they are translucent.  Pour in the beer.  Bring to a simmer, but DO NOT boil.

When the coals are ashed over, lay the brats on the hottest part of the grill, 1/2 inch apart.  Cook for 5 min, or until they start to char.  WHEN you have a flare up--and you will, move the brat off the flames and close the lid.  DO NOT stab at your brats with a fork, but rather move them with your BBQ tongs. Rotate and flip them over.  Get them slightly blackened on all sides.  When they are well cooked, lay them in the beer and onion bath.  Keep them on the stove until the buns are ready.

Slice open and butter the inside of your kaiser rolls. Kaisers are best because they have a good crusty outside and round shape that is much larger than the brat it's going to hold. It can stand up to all the juicy goodness and sloppiness that's about to take place without spilling it's contents all over your lap and disintegrating into goo.  Place the rolls, butter-side down on the grill and toast until they get golden brown in the middle and darkened at the edges.  Assemble your brats with one--or if you're daring, two--brats in a bun, mustard and/or ketchup, sauerkraut, and onions.That's it.

Some common bratwurst mistakes: 
1) Soaking the brats in beer first.  This does nothing but waste a cheap beer.  It adds nothing to the flavor (it burns off) and can make an already smokey grill a flaming grill.  Not helpful.

2) Over garnish.  Brats are a joy to themselves: simple, harmonious.  Don't add things like mayo or pickle relish.  Have a side of potato salad and a pickle if you need these things.

3) Ignor the warm bath afterwards.  Brats and beer are meant for each other.  The warm beer, butter and onions infuses the sausage with extra deliciousness.  But if you must sin, this is one you may pass on.

Grill-smoked Crab Legs

These are awesome and simple. 

1 lb Snow Crab Legs, per person (here in Colorado, usually sold pre-cooked and then frozen)

Build a two-layer fire in your grill.  When the coals have ashed over, add a layer of cherrywood branches or chips on top of the coals.  Stack the crab legs on the cool part of the grill and close the lid.  The smoke will be pouring out of the grill so sit up wind.

Let these continue to cook until the smoke has nearly subsided, about 30-45 minutes.

Serve with melted butter and or lemon if you want to.  But we mostly ate them plain!

For dessert, go ahead: grill some marshmallows on a stick. 

A Little Wedge of Heaven

This past week, I took a friend (and prospective client--he says, with hope in his heart) to one of the most charming little restaurants in Longmont, which, curiously, is not at all known for being a restaurant.  Cheese Importers in Longmont, Colorado is the "Home Depot of Cheese," comparable for the vastness of its refrigerated warehouse (customers are offered complimentary, in-store parkas for their cheesing pleasure).  Linda and two of her children, Clara and Samm, provide impeccable customer service, patiently answering questions, managing the charm of the Market Europa, communicating with restaurants and stores across five states for their wholesale business, and importing an extraordinary selection of cheese and other merchandise.  I'll circle back around to Linda and Cheese Importers in a moment, but first a few thoughts on cheese.

Cheese is too large a topic for me to cover in one sitting, but I hope to provide a few general concepts to make your cheese exploration more enjoyable. First, ignore the high-brow jargon.  Like wine, cigars and perfumes, cheese making is steeped in rich tradition and pretension.  Start learning for yourself, and develop your own senses according to what you enjoy.  Think of texture, color, smell and taste.  Do you a prefer mild, neutral essence that melts easily and blends with other flavors, or do you want a hard cheese that slaps your taste buds out of their stupor?  Or maybe you'd like to try a sweeter, crumbly cheese veined with pungent blue-green mold that can stand on its own--and sometimes has to because of the smell?  Get to know what you prefer.  Soon, you'll be noticing commonalities between cheeses you like. 

Next, don't be afraid to ask for help.  Not sure what rinds can be eaten and which should be removed?  (I'm still not always sure--so don't feel bad!)  Ask.  Not sure if the sudden bloom of fine white hairs on your cheese is a sign of future gastro-regret?  Just ask.  Does this cheese work well in a grilled cheese sandwich?  What wine would pair well with this?  What crackers, cured meats, olives or fruit would accompany that cheese?  Ask away! 

Once you've got a handle on where your tastes run, begin to branch out.  Start looking at the names of the cheese and their region of origin.  Look at the ingredients and consider how and how long it's been aged.  And then pass your love and experience on to others.

While you can probably get some assistance from the deli counter or cheese island at the local supermarket, the staff at Cheese Importers is adept at providing you with much of the help needed to become a budding connoisseur.  Besides being able to answer nearly every cheese-related question thrown at them, they also have samples to taste, and the little restaurant portion of Market Europa uses their own product.  (I had a artichoke heart and fontina panini and a cup of gazpacho.)  They can tell their story better than I can, so if you're in the area, please give them a visit.  If you aren't, visit their website.  I think you'll agree that there is something unique in what they do.

Tonight for dinner, try one of these cheese-inspired dishes.

Grilled Cheese Sandwiches

4-6 slices (4"x1"x1/8") of Fontina Cheese

2 slices of Sandwich Bread (a small crumb, with the crusts not too crusty)

Butter, at room temperature

Get a heavy, well seasoned skillet heated to medium hot.  Butter the two slices of bread.  Drop a pat of butter into the skillet; the butter should melt in about 10 seconds and should start to brown in 40 seconds.  Swirl the skillet to evenly distribute the fats across the bottom of the skillet.  Gently lay the bread, butter side DOWN into the skillet.  Reduce the heat to medium, and lay the cheese on the open face of the bread.  Place the other slice of bread on top of the cheese, butter side UP.

Cook for 2 minutes or until the bread toasts to the color you like.  Then flip the sandwich over.  Cook for 2 minutes more.  Serve.


Three Cheeses and Macaroni
3 tablespoons Unsalted Butter
3 tablespoons Flour
1 1/2 cups Milk
1/2 cup Heavy Cream
1/2 teaspoon Salt
1/2 teaspoon Ground Black Pepper
1 lb Goulda, shredded (or other mild cheese, like a mild white cheddar)
1/2 lb Fontina, shredded
1/4 lb Asiago, shredded
1/8 teaspoon Cayenne Pepper
1 lb (uncooked weight) of large Shell Pasta (Conchiglie), cooked and drained

In a large sauce pan, melt the butter on medium high heat.  Sprinkle in the flour and whisk together until it makes a paste or roux.  Cook for a few minutes more, until the roux starts to get some color.  Add in the milk, and continue to whisk until the roux is completely dissolved.  Add salt and pepper to taste.  Reduce the heat to medium and continue to cook and stir until the milk thickens and becomes bubbly. 

Add in the cheese, a handful at a time, and stir until completely melted before adding the next handful.  When the last of the cheese has been added and melted, stir in the cream and cayenne pepper. 

Cook and drain the pasta and pour the cheese sauce over the hot shells. 

Serve in bowls--gooey and delicious!


Parmesan Crisps
4 oz block of Parmesan, grated on the fine holes of a box grater
Ground Black Pepper

Heat oven to 300 degrees. 

Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper.  Measure lightly heaping tablespoons of cheese and place in individual mounds on the parchment.  Flatten the mounds to about 1/8 inch, leaving a few inches between cheese mounds.  Sprinkle lightly with pepper. 

Bake on the center rack for 5-6 minutes.  Let cool, then remove to a plate for serving. 

Mmmmmm ...... Milk Jello

Some desserts deserve more recognition than they receive.  Panna cotta is one of those under-recognized, overlooked, and often neglected delectable treats. 

While we stayed in Stresa Italy, a little village on Lake Maggiore in the Piemonte region at the base of the Italian Alps, H and I fell in love with the local cuisine: fresh homemade gnocchi,  delicious cured meats, soft and hard cheeses and local wines.  (Note: wine is often cheaper than water for table service!)  And, as it turns out, Piemonte is also the likely birthplace of panna cotta, or "cooked cream." 

Panna cotta shares certain similarities with custards: a sweetened and congealed milk base.  The milk and cream are simmered lightly allowing the fats to begin to tighten into twisting bonds (like what happens when cream curdles in your coffee-- but without the sour milk flavor, and less chunky).  Unlike custard, however, there are no eggs and we don't continue to bake the fats in the oven.  Panna cotta, is therefore lighter, more ethereal, and frankly far less complicated to make.  Its flavor stands up well by itself, rich and creamy, but panna cotta most often provides a sumptuous background for fruits, sauces and other flavors. 

Without all the heat and the eggs of a custard, panna cotta uses gelatin as the structural agent.  In spite of popular rumor, gelatin is NOT made of horses' hooves, but is an animal byproduct.  For a really good time, read all about what it is and how it works, here.  The original jelling agent was most likely boiled fish bones, but fortunately for us, powdered gelatin is much easier to use and without flavor.

Surprise your friends and family.  For dessert tonight, try:

Panna Cotta

1 cup Whole Milk

2 3/4 teaspoons Unflavored Gelatin

3 cups Heavy Cream

2 teaspoons Vanilla Extract

6 tablespoons Sugar

pinch of Salt

Pour the milk into a medium sauce pan and sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the surface of the milk.  Let stand for 10 minutes to allow the gelatin to hydrate.  Get the rest of your ingredients ready and also fill a very large mixing bowl 1/2 way with ice and add enough water to let the ice cubes float off the bottom.  Get another bowl ready that is small enough to fit inside the large bowl, and large enough to hold about 6-8 cups of liquid.  Also set out the ramekins or cups you will use for chilling.

Heat the milk and gelatin on medium high heat, stirring constantly, until the temperature reaches 135 degrees on an instant read thermometer.  Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar and salt until dissolved.

Pour the milk mixture, the heavy cream and the vanilla into the smaller of the two bowls and place that bowl into the ice water bath.  Stirring constantly, chill the mixture to 50 degrees. 

Pour the finished mixture into the cups, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 4 hours. 

To serve, dip the cup into hot water for 15-20 seconds, making sure not to let any water spill into the panna cotta.  Wet your finger and gently run it around  the edge of the cup loosening the panna cotta's hold.  Turn out onto a serving plate and top with your favorite syrup, sauce, fruit, nuts, etc.  (In the finished picture, H made a Sangria Syrup!)