Sunday, October 31, 2010

Tuna Fest, or How to Bring It All Together

It's like Iron Chef

My brother, my friend and I got together at my brother's house.  "What should we have to eat?" the conversation began.  "Whatever you want.  You figure out the main ingredient and I'll work with it," was my reply.  My brother brought home 2 1/2 pounds of beautiful Ahi Tuna. 

So how to assemble a dinner only just finding out what the theme ingredient is?  How do the Iron Chefs do it?

I wish I could be as eloquent as Michelangelo when he said, "Carving is easy.  You just go down to the skin and stop," but I'm not.   This is similar to bringing flavors together, however.  Begin with simplicity.  Use quality ingredients.  Add until you have the dish you want to eat.  Then stop cooking.  Easy, right?

For people who can draw, drawing a portrait is easy.  For people who can play a guitar and sing, serenading a beautiful woman is easy.  I haven't acquired those skills.  I have developed my sense of taste, however, and like Michelangelo, the resulting accomplishments look effortless.  (Isn't that awesome?  I AM comparing myself to Michelangelo.  I love being me.)  The good news: anyone with a functional nose and tastebuds can achieve the same results or better. 

As discussed before, the senses of smell and taste inform us of what we like and what tastes good together.  Sweet and spicy, bitter and sweet, sweet and sour, salty and sweet, spicy and sour all work together as compliments.  However, bitter and sour or salty and spicy make a very untasty dish.  Even sweet by itself becomes overpowering. 

So how do you develop your senses and use that in cooking?  First, experience it.  Taste what you are tasting.  Open your mouth slightly and breathe air over it, inhaling through your nose and mouth.  What does it really taste like?  What makes a pear, taste and smell like a pear?  Why isn't it an apple?  The subtle differences make all the difference.

So back to Tuna Night.  We wanted multiple courses. My brother launched the evening off with cocktails and a magnificent Tuna Poke (pronounced PO-kee).  I served a papaya and jalapeno salsa with tortilla chips.  I followed with a simple rice and tuna soup.  Then the main course: a sesame-encrusted and seared tuna on a bed of mixed greens and chimchurri.  For dessert, I made a non-tuna panna cotta with a nice aged port poured over the top. 

Laughter, stories of friends and times since past, good food, good drink.  These are the ingredients of a great evening; And better than any Iron Chef can produce. 

Tuna Poke
1 lb fresh Ahi Tuna
1/2 small Onion (Maui), minced
2 green Scallions, diced
1/2 teaspoon Fresh Ginger, grated
2 cloves Garlic, minced
1/4 cup Soy Sauce
1/2 teaspoon Sesame Oil
1/2 teaspoon Crushed Red Pepper Flakes
1/2 teaspoon Chinese Chili Sauce
1/2 teaspoon Kosher Salt

Cut Ahi into at least 1/2" cubes - set aside & refrigerate.  Combine all other ingredients in a large glass bowl & refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

When ready to serve toss Ahi and other ingredients together.


Hot and Sour Tuna Soup
2 tablespoons Canola Oil
1 1/2 tablespoons Thai Red Curry Paste (sold by the jar at most supermarkets)
3 cups Vegetable Stock (or 2 cups Vegetable and 1 cup Fish or Chicken Stock)
1 cup Boiling Water (or as needed)
3 tablespoons Soy Sauce
1/4 cup Rice Wine Vinegar
2 tablespoons White Vinegar
1 cup Long Grain White Rice (I used Jasmine, because that's what I had on hand)
1/2 pound Ahi Tuna, cut into 1" or smaller cubes (it's ok to use the trimmings from the other tuna dishes you're making)
1 tablespoon Fish Sauce
Scallion Greens, thinly sliced, for garnish

In a large pot (I used a Chinese clay soup pot, just because it looks so cool!) heat the oil over medium high heat and add the curry paste.  Mash, stir and whisk the paste until loose, runny and dissolving.  Add the stock and continue to whisk until completely dissolved.  Add the soy sauce and vinegars.  Let come to a low boil and add the rice.  Cover and reduce the heat and let simmer on a low setting for about 20-30 minutes. 

When the rice has plumped up, stir in the fish and fish stock.  Add more boiling water if the rice has taken over the broth.  Cover and remove from the heat.  Let stand for at least 10 minutes.  Serve hot, garnishing each bowl with generous pinch of scallions.


Sesame Encrusted Tuna
1 tablespoon Canola Oil
1 pound Ahi Tuna
1/4 cup White Sesame Seeds
2 tablespoon Whole Mustard Seeds
1 tablespoon Black Peppercorns, crushed
1/2 teaspoon Salt


On a plate, combine the sesame seeds, mustard seeds, peppercorns and salt.  Mix and spread out evenly.  Lay the tuna into the seed mixture and press gently, coating one side of the tuna completely.  Flip the tuna over and repeat. 


Heat the 1/2 the oil in a large non-stick skillet until it begins to smoke.  Add the tuna.  Cook for 30-45 seconds.  Using tongs, lift the tuna out of the skillet, add the remaining oil, flip the tuna to cooked side up and sear the other side, about 30-45 seconds.


Remove to a cutting board and slice into 1/2 inch slices.  The tuna should be just starting to grey around the edges and raw in the middle.  Serve on a bed of fresh greens with a dollop of Chimchurri and a small cup of soy sauce on the side. 


Chimchurri
1 cup, packed, Cilantro Leaves
3 large cloves Garlic, chopped
1/2 medium Red Onion
1 Jalapeno, seeds removed, minced
1 tablespoon Crushed Red Pepper Flakes
1/2 teaspoon Salt
1/2 cup Olive Oil
1/4 cup Red Wine Vinegar

In the bowl of a food processor, add the cilantro, garlic onion and jalapeno, red pepper flakes and salt.  Pulse several times and then scrape down the sides.  Repeat.  Turn it on and slowly add the vinegar and oil, until it comes together as a paste or slurry. 

Scrape into a serving dish, cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 2 or 3 days before. 

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