Monday, January 3, 2011

This Is What It's Like When Worlds Collide

Green Russell. 

The name evokes a variety of questions: "What's that?"  "Who is that?" and "Did you say 'Green Muscles?'  I love mine in a nice white wine sauce."

But for those who know, the name Green Russell means a lot more. 

Imagine a cold winter's night:  The lights of the Big City reflect off the newly fallen snow.  We exit the cab and walk down an alley way to follow the signs to a pie shop.  Holding onto the frozen handrail, we cautiously descend a flight of stairs into a small pie shop store front.  Through another set of doors and we are in a warm, cozy, softly lit speakeasy.  But even for the costumes and ambiance, the real magic is yet to be revealed.

We give our names for the reservation and the hostess escorts us to our seats.  We pass low leather chairs with high seat backs in intimate little nooks.  There are no conventional tables as you would expect if you only ever visited chain restaurants or bars.  In fact, the hostess seats us in a prime location: the bar. 

Green Russell is "a chef driven cocktail joint."  We have Chris, our bartender, and share him with only two other couples while we're there.  Unusual to any bar, Chris is back lit by a large grow room, and while Colorado allows commercial growing of marijuana for medicinal use, I recognize the herbs growing in this grow room as something different: rosemary, thyme, oregano, Thai basil and lemon and lime trees. 

As IS usual at any great cocktail joint, the staff is warm and inviting.  Witty banter ensues.  The menus are presented and yes, there are some cocktails listed.  But we know better.  I tell Chris, "I put it in your hands.  I like scotch and bourbon--leather, smokey, woody flavors.  I make my own bitters at home, so I enjoy herbs and aromatics."

And then he made magic.

Each drink is custom created for the client's taste.  A bespoke cocktail, if you will.  From a time when "cocktail" meant something. 

We ordered house made potato chips with bleu cheese.  My brother had a layered drink of Bowmore 10 year Scotch, Fernette Branca and Absinthe.  I started off with a little number they called the George C Skag:  bourbon, black pepper simple syrup, cardamom bitters and lemon juice.  My wife enjoyed the most conventional drink: The Mile High Club--gin, yellow chartreuse, egg whites, and . . . other magic.  We each had three drinks that night, plus food and coffee.  I'll be honest with you.  The recipes got fuzzy.  Or maybe the recipes stayed the same and we got fuzzy.  Regardless, we had an incredible time.

When you go to Green Russell, there are a few rules you need to know.

  1. No cell phones.  No calling, no texting, no checking in on Foursquare, no pictures.  The staff abides by this rule, and you will too.  Relax.  You will enjoy it.
  2. The customer is always right.  The people who are taking care of you love you.  Love them back.
  3. You will pay for the privilege.  Perfection isn't cheap.  It's not excessive, but the value is exactly as it should be.  And don't forget to tip. 
  4. Take a cab.  If you have enjoyed yourself appropriately, you should not drive.    Everyone will love you more for being smart.
So this is what it's like when old and new come together.  Retro attention to detail and modern stylings.  I would love to show you pictures, but . . . see Rule #1. 

And Chris, thank you.  Very much.

Tonight, for a pre-dinner cocktail try:

Cloister
1 1/2 oz Gin
1/2 oz Yellow Chartreuse
1/4 oz Lemon Juice
1/2 oz Grapefruit Juice
1/4 oz Superfine Sugar

Shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass.  Garnish with a lemon twist. 


Man of War
1 1/2 oz Bourbon
1/2 oz Sweet Vermouth
1/2 oz Cointreau
1/4 oz Lime Juice

Shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass.  Garnish with a lime twist.


Samurai
1 oz Triple Sec
1 oz Vodka
1 oz Sake
1 oz Lemon Juice

Pour over ice in a highball glass and stir.

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